Bashkir folk crafts. Household crafts - of the Bashkir people

Folk arts and crafts are an integral property and national wealth of the peoples of the Republic of Bashkortostan and are one of the forms of folk art.
The main occupation of the Bashkirs was semi-nomadic cattle breeding. The herd consisted of horses, sheep, goats and a large cattle... The horse played the main role in the farm. Horse meat and fat, kumis from mare's milk were the main food of the Bashkirs. Quivers, shields, and harness were made from horse skins. The horse was both a labor force and a means of transportation.
There were few cattle, since these animals could not get food on their own in winter, as horses did, which broke the snow with their hooves, freeing the grass from the snow cover. And yet, dairy products occupied a prominent place in the Bashkir cuisine. Ghee, cheese, red cottage cheese were prepared for the winter, and ayran drink was made from sour milk. Sheep were of great importance in the economy of the Bashkirs. Lamb was also used for food, as well as for sewing clothes. Sheep wool was used to make felt, carpets, cloth.
HUNTING AND FISHING
The rich steppes and forests made it possible to catch and shoot game and animals, keep birds of prey, and fish with various tackles. Horseback hunting took place mostly in autumn time... Groups of people, covering wide areas, looked for wolves, foxes and hares, shot at them from a bow, or, having caught up on a horse, killed with clubs and flails. Collective hunting played a large role in teaching young people the art of war - archery, spear and flail skills, and horse riding. Fishing was not as common as hunting. Nevertheless, fishing played a significant role in forest and mountainous areas. In dry years, as well as during periods of war, and in the steppe zone, the population resorted to fishing.
BOARDING
In forest and mountain-forest areas essential in the Bashkir economy there was bee-keeping, which was apparently taken from the Bulgars and the Finno-Ugric population of the region. Bortnichestvo existed among the Bashkirs in two forms. The first boiled down to the fact that the beekeeper was looking for a hollow tree in the forest, in which wild bees settled, carved his ancestral or family tamga on it, widened the hole leading to the hollow and inserted pads into it to collect honey. The beaded tree became his property.
Another form is associated with the manufacture of artificial boards. To do this, a straight tree with a thickness of at least 60 centimeters was chosen in the forest and a voluminous hollow with holes for the entrance of bees was hollowed out at a height of 6-8 meters. In the first half of the summer, enterprising beekeepers tried to make as many beads as possible in places attractive to bees. In the middle of summer, during swarming, new colonies of bees moved into almost all sides. The practice of making artificial boards made it possible to regulate the resettlement of bee colonies and to concentrate the onboard possessions of individual people and clan communities in limited areas, most favorable for collecting honey and ensuring the protection of bears from bears.

The Russian Federal Republic is a multinational state, representatives of many peoples live, work and honor their traditions here, one of which is the Bashkirs living in the Republic of Bashkortostan (the capital of Ufa) on the territory of the Volga Federal District... I must say that the Bashkirs live not only in this territory, they can be found everywhere in all corners of the Russian Federation, as well as in Ukraine, Hungary, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan.

Bashkirs, or as they call themselves Bashkorts - the indigenous Turkic population of Bashkiria, according to statistics, about 1.6 million people of this nationality live on the territory of the autonomous republic, a significant number of Bashkirs live in the territory of Chelyabinsk (166 thousand), Orenburg (52.8 thousand) , about 100 thousand representatives of this ethnic group are located in Perm Territory, Tyumen, Sverdlovsk and Kurgan regions. Their religion is Islamic Sunnism. Bashkir traditions, their way of life and customs are very interesting and differ from other traditions of the peoples of the Turkic nationality.

Culture and life of the Bashkir people

Until the end of the 19th century, the Bashkirs led a semi-nomadic lifestyle, however, they gradually became sedentary and mastered agriculture, the Eastern Bashkirs for some time practiced trips to summer nomad camps and in the summer preferred to live in yurts, over time, and they began to live in wooden log cabins or adobe huts, and then in more modern buildings.

Family life and celebration folk holidays Bashkirov almost until the end of the 19th century was subject to strict patriarchal foundations, in which, in addition, the customs of the Muslim Sharia were present. In the kinship system, the influence of Arab traditions was traced, which implied a clear division of the line of kinship into the maternal and paternal parts, this was subsequently necessary to determine the status of each family member in hereditary issues. The right of the minority (the privilege of the rights of the youngest son) was in effect, when the house and all property in it after the death of the father passed to the youngest son, the older brothers were to receive their share of the inheritance during the lifetime of the father, when they married, and the daughters when they got married. Previously, the Bashkirs gave their daughters in marriage quite early, the optimal age for this was considered to be 13-14 years old (bride), 15-16 years old (groom).

(F. Roubaud's painting "Hunting Bashkirs with falcons in the presence of Emperor Alexander II" 1880s)

Wealthy Bashkorts practiced polygamy, because Islam allows to have up to 4 wives at the same time, and there was a custom of conspiring children while still in cradles, parents drank bata (kumis or diluted honey from one bowl) and thus entered into a wedding union. When entering into marriage for the bride, it was customary to give kalym, which depended on the material condition of the parents of the newlyweds. It could be 2-3 horses, cows, several outfits, a pair of shoes, a painted scarf or a robe, a fox fur coat was presented to the mother of the bride. In a marriage relationship honored old traditions, the levirate rule was in effect ( younger brother must marry the elder's wife), sororata (the widower marries younger sister his late wife). Islam plays a huge role in all spheres of social life, hence the special position of women in the family circle, in the process of marriage and divorce, as well as in hereditary relations.

Traditions and customs of the Bashkir people

The main festivities of the Bashkir people are held in spring and summer. The people of Bashkortostan celebrate Kargatui "rooks' holiday" at a time when rooks arrive in spring, the meaning of the holiday is to celebrate the moment of awakening of nature from winter sleep and also a reason to turn to the forces of nature (by the way, the Bashkirs believe that it is the rooks that are closely related to them) with a request for the well-being and fertility of the coming agricultural season. Previously, only women and the younger generation could participate in the festivities, now these restrictions have been removed, and men can also lead round dances, eat ritual porridge and leave its remains on special boulders for rooks.

The Sabantuy plow holiday is dedicated to the beginning of work in the fields, all the inhabitants of the village came to the open area and participated in various competitions, they fought, competed in running, rode horses and pulled each other on ropes. After determining and awarding the winners, a common table was laid with various dishes and treats, usually it was a traditional beshbarmak (a dish made from chopped boiled meat and noodles). Previously, this custom was carried out in order to appease the spirits of nature, so that they make the land fertile, and it gave a good harvest, and over time it became common spring holiday, which marked the beginning of heavy agricultural work. Residents of the Samara region have revived the traditions of both the Grachin holiday and Sabantuy, which they celebrate every year.

An important holiday for the Bashkirs is called Jiin (Yiyin), residents of several villages participated in it, during which various trade operations were carried out, parents agreed on the marriage of children, fair sales were held.

Also, the Bashkirs honor and celebrate all Muslim holidays, traditional for all adherents of Islam: these are Eid al-Adha (the end of fasting), and Eid al-Adha (the holiday of the end of the Hajj, on which a ram, camel or cow must be sacrificed), and Mawlid -bayram (Prophet Muhammad is famous).

Master - classes on teaching crafts were held in Ufa. An amazing miracle awaits those who decide to study ancient and forever young crafts.

The Crafts Chamber of the Republic of Bashkortostan, thanks to the support of the Administration of the Urban District of Ufa, the Ufa City Fund for the Development and Support of Small Business, held six master classes on different directions handicraft art.

The main goal of organizing training events, the organizers set the preservation and development of crafts and crafts, including through the transfer of knowledge and skills by the bearers of the craft to all interested people!
When learning the basics of music or foreign language, suddenly there comes a moment when previously unfamiliar signs-notes turn into a wonderful melody or Latin letters - into Shakespeare's sonnets.
The same amazing miracle awaits those who decide to study ancient and eternally young crafts: weaving, patchwork, felt felting, folk toy and many others.
169 people studied at the master classes. It is interested in organizing entrepreneurial activity youth, unemployed population, teachers working with children and adolescents, active older women.
All participants expressed their wish to continue their studies.

On the second master - class taught the basics of patchwork sewing.

A master class on the basics of patchwork sewing was held at the Ufa vocational lyceum No. 10. It was organized by the Crafts Chamber of the Republic of Belarus, the administration of Ufa and the Ufa City Fund for Small Business Support. The lesson was conducted by Stella Markova, a member of the Union of Artists of Russia.

In 1985, Stella Yulievna graduated from the graphic arts department of the Bashkir State Pedagogical University. She works in various techniques of artistic textiles (patchwork, quilt, applique). The artist shared the secrets of the craft with the participants of the event and taught the basics of this fascinating craft. Markova's style is characterized by a traditionally simple, but strictly verified composition.

Patchwork is a fairly ancient craft, but not as much as weaving. It is found in all countries of the world. It is because of the frugality of the peasants that patchwork has survived, ”said Stella Markova. - People did not throw away used things and surviving pieces of fabric, but often used them, for example, they sewed blankets. Previously, such blankets in villages were considered a sign of poverty.

Today patchwork and quilt are perceived as original, complex art. Compared to the traditions of European sewing, in the Russian tradition - the simplest assembly. These are squares and triangles, matched in a certain colors... Modern Russian products have their own "face", they show the breadth of the Russian soul. Unfortunately, today there are few original examples of old patchwork products.

Once you start doing patchwork, it is very difficult to stop. I myself have been doing this business for over ten years, but every time I discover new sewing technologies. It is impossible to master the technique in one day. This is a painstaking business. On average, it takes at least two to four months to make a product, ”said Stella Markova.

A lot of women from Ufa attended the patchwork master class. There were women among them of different ages... This means that this interesting type of creativity is popular.

Source “Education. Way to success"

As part of the craft training program in Ufa, a master class "Folk Ritual Doll" was held

The making of a souvenir doll "Angel" was demonstrated by Elena Oskotskaya, a master artist of decorative and applied arts.
Here's what she says about herself:
I am an interior designer, landscape designer, a bit of an artist, and recently I have become interested in making dolls. Rather, I made dolls as a child from papier-mâché and scraps. It turned out rude, but, unlike the purchased ones, they had an individuality. Then I grew up, finished school, entered the Chemistry Department of the Bashkir State University and for a long time forgot not only about dolls, but also about the fact that I can draw.
A discovery for me was the recently appeared material called "plastic" or polymer clay. This unique material allows for very fine detailing and conveys the characteristics of human skin well. It is especially interesting for me to make dolls with portrait likeness. I try to capture in a person not so much the proportions of his face, but those characteristic only features that betray his essence. At the same time, my dolls are always kind and funny, because in every person you can find cute and charming features, which is probably why their "originals" like them.
I also really like to see the reaction of a person when they first meet their small copy. If I am not present, the customer of the doll usually tells me what impression the gift made. The reaction is sometimes completely unexpected: for example, one stern lady, occupying a rather large position in the bank, shed a tear when presenting a gift, and the employees who later came into her office saw her, like a little girl, playing with a doll. The not very sentimental young man reacted in the same way. But mostly, of course, people laugh, and the giver of the doll, in my opinion, feels no less pleasure from his gift than the recipient.
I make my dolls from photographs (full face, profile, three-quarters and full length) from polymer plastic, a wire frame. I sew clothes from fabric. For hair I buy hairpieces, Chinese "hairy" hairpins, and sometimes I have to invent something special. For example, she made gray curly hair from synthetic rope, sometimes woolen threads or fur are used. Together with the customer, we come up with clothes and entourage, because it is not interesting if the doll will just stand or sit. Therefore, you have to become a furniture maker, a hairdresser, and a master of guitar, not even to list - who else. The most difficult thing is to figure out how and from what to make, for example, a bath bowl or a car steering wheel. Or, for example, you have to surf the Internet to study in detail what hockey skates or a microphone look like.
On average, it takes two weeks to make a doll. It happens that the similarity does not come out immediately and I redo my head two or three times.
I am proud that my dolls live with Yuri Shevchuk, Ksenia Sobchak, as well as with several dozen other people and, I hope, bring them joy.
The participants of the master class also received real true joy when their "own angels" appeared in their hands.
Materials of the Internet newspaper BASHVEST were used.

Including different areas creative activity aimed at making art products for household, ritual and ceremonial purposes - clothes, shoes, household utensils, furniture, fabrics, tools, etc.

Types of arts and crafts differ in the material used (wood, ceramics, bones, leather, metal, textiles), manufacturing techniques (chasing, burning, embroidery, carving, painting, casting).

Arts and crafts are associated with spiritual and material culture Bashkirs, their way of life, habits, traditions, the surrounding nature. Decorative and applied art is divided into traditional folk art, including trades, crafts and professional art of craftsmen. Until the 20th century, the Bashkirs were mainly traditional folk art.

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History

The origins of the Bashkir arts and crafts are associated with the ancient traditions of the nomadic culture of the Turkic peoples, the way of their life, in which household items were created, such as: utensils, clothes, shoes, horse decoration and rider equipment, religious and cult items, etc. Needs the Bashkirs were embodied in the emergence of arts and crafts associated with weaving, embroidery, wood and metal processing, in the design of Bashkir clothing, and home decoration.

Items of decorative and applied art of the Bashkirs were exhibited at art exhibitions held in 1997, 2002, 2008 in the Republic of Bashkortostan, they are exhibited in art galleries republic, National Museum of the Republic of Bashkortostan, Art museum them. M.V. Nesterov, Salavat Museum of History and Local Lore, etc.

In the 21st century, A. A. Bayramgulova, G. T. Mukhamedyarova, and others were engaged in the decoration of felt products. In this case, the needle-punching technique is used, borrowed from the production of non-woven tapestry.

Much attention is paid to the decoration, design and modeling of clothing. Masters A.D.Kirdyakin (leather goods, shawls), V.M.Shibaeva (patchwork), E. B. Efimovskaya (layering), and others work in this direction.

In the 80s in Bashkortostan, an interest arose in the manufacture of art dolls. Dolls are made of clay, faience, with fancy costumes. The dolls are created by masters: Bayburin N.G. (dolls "Mayankhylyu", "Khuzha", "Khuzhabika"), Sakhno Z.A. ("Clown"), Kuznetsova V.G. and others.

Literature

• Yanbukhtina A.G. Folk traditions in the decoration of the Bashkir house. Ufa, 1993;
• Yanbukhtina A.G. Decorative arts Bashkortostan. XX century: from tamga to avant-garde. Ufa, 2006;
• Professional arts and crafts of Bashkortostan: cat. 1 3 rep. vyst. Ufa, 1997-2008.
• Molchaeva A. V. Folk arts and crafts of Bashkortostan - Ufa: Bashkir publishing house "Kitap", 1995.
• Native Bashkortostan: textbook for grade 6 / Aznagulov R.G., Amineva F.Kh., Gallyamov A.A. - 2nd ed. - Ufa: Kitap, 2008.
• Khisametdinov FG History and culture of Bashkortostan: Textbook. A handbook for students of secondary specialized studies. head - 2nd ed. - add. - Ufa: Galem 2003 - 350 p.
• Shitova S.N. Folk art: felt, carpets and fabrics southern Bashkirs(Ethnographic essays). - Ufa: Kitap, 2006.
• Decorative and applied art of the Bashkirs / Author-comp .: K.R. Igbaev, R.A. Khafizova, A.R. Khusnullin. Ufa: RIAZ, Informreklama, 2003.
• Kuzbekov F.T. History of Bashkir culture / F.T. Kuzbekov. - Ufa: Kitap, 1997.
• Khismatullina N.Kh. Ornamental - coloristic basis of the Bashkir folk art/ N. Kh. Khismatullina. Ufa, 2000.
• Magadeev D. D. Ural and Bashkortostan from ancient times to the end of 1917 / D. D. Magadaev. Ufa, 2000.
• Omsk Scientific Bulletin No. 2. 2012. Salavatova G.A. Study of folk arts and crafts of the Bashkir people.
• Bikbulatov N.V., Farkhutdinova G.G. Bashkir ornament. // Bashkortostan: a short encyclopedia. - Ufa: Bashkir Encyclopedia, 1996 .-- S. 451-452. - 672 p. - ISBN 5-88185-001-7.

A man without craft is like a bird without wings

The Bashkir subsistence farming required development home production... A lot of different subsidies required cattle breeding. For example, different harnesses are required to control a lashadyo. It is necessary to make bridles, halters, halter halter, harness, reins, yoke, bow and much more. All this was made by hand at home from scrap materials. In every Bashkir aul there were masters for making saddles. Saddles consisted of a wooden frame, usually covered with leather. This frame of a special configuration could be one-piece, or it could consist of four parts, fastened with belts: from the front and back bows, as well as two small planks. Lenchik itself could be solid, semi-cylindrical. Each craftsman strove to give a different configuration to the front bow of the saddle (say, the shape of a bird's head). The front bow was ornamented with cut-in patterns of spirals and rosettes.

Saddles for men, women and children were slightly different from each other. A saddle cloth was made from a thick felt, most often using goat's wool. A felt saddlecloth with a leather or cloth top was superimposed on the saddlecloth, a saddle was installed on the saddlecloth. The saddlecloths also carried an aesthetic load; it was customary to decorate them with colored applique or embroidery. Saddle accessories include stirrups, mostly iron or brass, forged or brass. Wooden stirrups (bent, solid, carved) were made from birch, birch root, bird cherry. Often, wooden stirrups were ornamented using notched lines, dotted dots etc.

Among the Bashkirs, it was widespread to make leather dishes from the skins of horses, bulls, cows and calves, sheep and goats, as well as camels. From the skin removed, the residues of fat and meat were carefully removed, then they were dried and the wool was removed. The details of the vessel were cut out of the stretched skin. Cow tendons or horse hair were used to sew the vessel. They sewed with tight stitches, the bottom of the vessel was attached with a double seam. The outer side of the skins became the inner side of the vessel. Then the vessel should be quenched in smoke (smoked) for 2-3 weeks, then lubricated with horse fat. Then the vessel became completely waterproof.

The most voluminous leather vessel, containing 6-12 buckets of liquid, is the ha6a (saba), which was made from the skin of a horse's body. This vessel was a four-sided pyramid with a rectangular base, its wide throat was covered with a leather cover. The spice-physical shape of the saba was achieved due to the fact that triangular wedges were sewn into the side parts. Saba was used for the preparation and maintenance of kumis. In the saba, the mare's milk was periodically knocked down with a large wooden rattle (beshkek) with a heavy mushroom base. This contributed to a better, more even souring of the milk.

Saba occupied an exceptional place in the life of the Bashkir family. It was located on a special permanent place in the dwelling. There is a well-known custom of farewell to a young weightless woman before leaving the parental home for the house of her future husband: she approaches the saba, hugs her and thanks her for feeding her. As a gift, the girl hangs on

Skin vessels. Loom.

sabu a piece of canvas or thread.

Another type of leather vessel - turkyk (tursyk, tursuk) served for the transportation of kumis. Going to the road, the Bashkirs took with them a tursyk with kumis. To make a tursyk, they used skins from the upper part of the legs of young animals, most often a horse. The vessel was sewn from two pieces with seams on the sides. The throat of the vessel was slightly narrowed; belt loops were attached to the shoulder protrusions. There were tursyks with sewn-in lateral triangular wedges. The tursyk usually contained 2-3 buckets of kumis.

A different type of vessel was made from horse or cow skin - a flat road flask with a narrow bottom - murtai. This vessel has a flattened pear-shaped shape; ears are sewn at the neck to attach the belts. The back and front walls of the flask are semi-oval; a wedge-shaped strip of skin is inserted between them. Murtai could be of various sizes, usually it was made with a height of 30-35 centi-meters. Vessel average size burkyk (bursyk, wineskin) was sewn from the whole skin of a sheep, goat or calf.

In the everyday life of the Bashkir family, wooden utensils were widespread, which by the beginning of the twentieth century had replaced leather utensils almost completely. Bashkir craftsmen made numerous and varied types of utensils by chiselling a whole piece of wood. Whole-slotted tableware and kitchen utensils were made from a linden trunk, from birch and larch roots, from willow and birch outgrowths.

Homemade wooden food bowls were all sorts of different things. For example, a round bowl with a ledge handle (ashlau) has sloping walls from the inside. The less sloping outer walls merge into the base. The handle has the shape of a semicircle or a vertically located corner, often the handle is cut in the shape of a snake or a bird's head. Ashlaw was used for an hour as a ritual bowl. Large festive ashlays could even reach one meter in diameter.

Common everyday utensils (tobacco) are in the form of a plate with a stable bottom and a wide, folded edge. A round dish with gently sloping low walls and a bent wide edge was called koshtabak. It served boiled meat and poultry sprinkled with fat. The soup was served in a medium-sized bowl on a heavy massive base with thickened sheer walls (altar). The craftsmen also made a deep wooden bowl with two handles.

Bowls were made for serving drinks. In deep large bowls with a capacity of 4-5 liters, it was customary to take drinks to the place of the meal. The cash was poured into small bowls (tustak, tagayak, tustagan) with a special wooden ladle for each guest. These scoops and scoops could be carved, roomy, with a short or elongated handle, etc.

Small wooden bowls were used to feed the children. Milk and mead were drunk from such dishes, honey, butter, sweets were served in them. Vases for honey had a specific shape. Some vases were carved in the form of deep bowls with a lid. Others were shallow bowls on a patterned stand.

A variety of kitchen utensils were made from wood. For winnowing grain, sifting flour, kneading dough, special trays (yulpys, yulpych) were used. They were made from half a thick tree trunk by chiselling. Long (up to 80 centimeters), they retain rounded shape wood. Their lateral walls are sloping, the narrow edges gradually turn into protrusions-handles at both ends of the tray. A similar product, a dugout trough (yalgash), was used to store food or wash clothes, or to feed livestock and poultry.

For peeling millet, crushing dried grains of wheat and barley, grinding salt, wooden mortars (keels) were used. They have an elongated upper part that gradually tapers downwards and rests on a thick lower base. The keel height reaches 75 centimeters, but its working part is very small. The keel was cut from an elongated stump of wood. A double-sided pestle with a recess in the middle for the hand was made from a pole.

Among the elements of wooden kitchen utensils made by Bashkir craftsmen are chef's spoons, scoops and shovels. The spoons had different purposes. For example, ladles with a long handle served for stirring food during its preparation. Such a ladle was made with a hook-protrusion on the handle so that it could be hung on the edge of the boiler. Special wooden spoons with holes in the bottom were intended for picking dumplings from broth. Wooden scoops were made on a short handle, with their help grain and flour were collected. Cakes and bread were planted in the oven using a long-handled spatula, and small wooden spatulas were used to knead the dough.

Wooden tubs were varied: from large tubs for storing flour and other products to small tubs for carrying food. Various buckets were made by chiselling (milk pans, water buckets, small buckets). Milk pans with a capacity of up to six liters looked wide and stable. A braided rope handle was attached to the holes in the side of the bucket. The water buckets held up to 10 liters of liquid. Small buckets were used for picking berries, carrying kumis, ayran. They were as high as milk pans, but narrow, elongated and held 3-4 liters of liquid.

Wooden vessels for collecting and transporting honey were given an elongated shape. These vessels had a tight lid; with the help of a special handle, they could be carried behind the back or hung on the shoulder. In winter, honey and oil were stored in the same vessels. For storing butter and honey, special low tubs with straight walls were also made. Similar vessels (tapan) served to serve kumis and mead to guests. These vessels had slightly convex walls decorated with carved ornaments. For salt, oil, sour cream, special wooden jars were also used.

Narrow dug-out vessels were used to make kumis and churn butter. They also made large kumis vessels with a capacity of up to 7 buckets of milk; similar vessels, but lower ones, were made as spice churns. Oil and ayran were prepared in these cylindrical vessels. Such vessels had a round lid with a whorl hole, which made it possible to avoid splashing liquid from the vessel when churning oil.

Large dugout tubs were used for storing grain, flour, collecting sour milk or salting meat. They could hold up to 10 buckets of liquid or 60-80 kilograms of grain.

Slotted vessels had a uniform manufacturing technology. The tree was cleaned of bark and branches, sawed into pieces of the required length and dried. The outer surface was treated with a special plow. The wood inside the trunk was cut with a chisel, and in thick trunks, the dense core was burned out. The inner walls were scraped out. If the bottom was plug-in, then special grooves were cut out. The round bottom was made of oak or maple and was inserted into the place previously steamed.

The manufacture of wooden vessels from plates-rivets appeared among the Bashkirs relatively recently, in late XIX-century. For such vessels, oak or aspen rivets, metal or bird cherry hoops were used. Among the similar riveted vessels of the Bashkirs, you can specify buckets, buckets for butter, sour cream, sour milk, for salting meat. Riveted churns and narrow tubs for preparing kumiss could also be riveted. In shape and size, the riveted vessels corresponded to their dugout counterparts.

The Bashkirs of forest regions have long been engaged in the manufacture of utensils from birch bark and bark different trees, from bast and bast. However, such household utensils found their owners in other areas of the settlement of the Bashkirs, getting to them mainly as a result of trade operations.

Rectangular boxes and boxes were obtained by sewing whole pieces of birch bark with horsehair. Milk was settled in large boxes with a capacity of 20-30 liters of liquid. In the form of a low box, rectangular trays were made from a solid birch bark blank. The edge of the box was turned open, all corners were sewn with twisted horsehair threads. Bread and flour for everyday consumption, dried berries, etc. were stored in such a tray (tuzayak). Small round or rectangular trays with a rope handle were used to collect berries. Birch bark utensils could also have a wooden bottom.

The moisture resistance of such vessels was ensured by dense walls, consisting of two or three layers of birch bark. The walls were stitched in several rows, or the edges were tightly intertwined, having previously cut them out with arrow-shaped teeth. Such vessels could be small, designed for 2-3 liters of liquid, or large, with a capacity of up to 20 liters of liquid.

Bashkir artisans-craftsmen made koro-ba, bodies, sacks, tubs, sieves from linden or birch bast, as well as from the bark of an elm tree. Such utensils were made from a single piece using bird cherry hoops for strengthening. A rectangular box made of linden bark and bast could be long, oblong, box-shaped, or trough-shaped. Such a box was used for settling milk, collecting sour milk, for filtering the curd mass. A large box could hold up to three quintals of grain and was used to store grain and flour. To store the kurt, a tall bast box was made, as well as a bast body with a wide rectangular base and triangular side walls tapering upward. Another type of high body had a barely outlined bottom and walls widening upward. Lubok tubs were designed for storing flour.

A bark or bast was used to make a back bag for picking berries. The rectangular bottom of the bag was made narrow, the vertical walls could be up to one meter high, the top was reinforced with a hoop, and straps were provided on the back wall.

Nests for geese, as well as scoops and sieves for grain winnowing were also made from bast. The side of the sieve was made of bast bast, the mesh was made of bast or hair.

Bashkir craftsmen were also engaged in the manufacture of utensils from bast. Boxes, bags, baskets, bodies, knapsacks were made from linden, birch or elm bast. Solid bast boxes were rectangular in shape and were adapted to be carried over the shoulder. Bast baskets and bodies were made low, round or oval-shaped. They also made high bast bags for bottles. Round in cross section, tapering upwards, they repeated the shape of the bottles.

CLOTHING, FOOTWEAR AND JEWELRY

A tree with red foliage, a man with clothes

Bashkirs wore uncomplicated and comfortable clothes, shoes matched her. The casual clothes of men and women consisted of a shirt, pants and stockings. The trousers were sewn long and wide. The middle part of the trousers consisted of one solid pile of fabric; trousers with one or two pairs of wedges were sewn to it. With a special cord, the ball-vars were pulled together at the waist. They wore them tucked into boots. Men's upper pants (salbar, chalbar) were sewn from coarse hemp canvas, or from homemade cloth. Unlike the lower pants, the upper ones usually had one pocket on the right side. Woolen upper pants were intended to be worn in winter.

Over the shirt they wore a camisole (kamzul) or kazakin (kәzәki) - clothes like a flared caftan. If necessary, a bishmet, one of the types of a robe with sleeves, made from factory fabric, was worn on a camisole or Kazakin. Bishmet is sewn below the knee, it fastens with 4-6 buttons, its lower part expands below the waist. Bishmet, kazakin and camisole are sewn close-fitting, with a lining, the collars are low, standing. Bishmet and kazakin have internal ties at the waist. Kazakin is shorter than bishmet (slightly above the knees), with short sleeves. The camisole is sewn even shorter from a dark factory material and is also sleeveless.

Women's bishmet, kazakin and camisole are made more carefully. Women's camisole is somewhat wider than men's and fastens with two buttons located at the waist and at the collar. Women's camisole is sewn from dark fabric, from semi-silk or velvet with chintz lining. Pozument, small coins, corals, etc. adorn the women's camisole along the sides, along the hem and at the collar.

Chekmen outerwear (sәkmәn, chikmәn) was also of the same cut for men and women. Long, wide in the main part and in the sleeves, chekmen also served as everyday clothes. For female chekmen, white cloth was usually used, it did not have ties or fasteners and did not have a girdle. Along the edge of the collar, along the sides and along the hem, women's chekmen were trimmed with a wide strip of red cloth and a narrow strip of green (or yellow) fabric. Triangles, squares and spiral stripes of colored cloth were sewn on the sides and on the back. On the shoulders, at the ends of the sleeves, along the hem, there could be embroidery with colored wool.

The Bashkir outerwear of the jilyan (elәn) resembles Central Asian robes and also has the same cover for men and women. Jilyan is sewn long and wide, with a straight back and a turn-down collar. It has no stitches, no buttons, no belts. Wealthy men wore jilans, sewn from semi-silk Central Asian fabric. The female jilan is not so wide and is sewn at the waist. It could be made of paper fabric, unpretentious, without decorations, or it could be a richly decorated velvet robe. Jilyan was sewn on a lining; for a female jilyan, a fastener on the chest was sometimes provided. Stripes of red or green cloth were sewn along the edges of the chest. A red stripe was sewn along the edges of the sides, along the hem, at the ends of the sleeves. The female jilan was also trimmed with stripes of tinsel in several rows and small silver coins, metal plaques, and coral threads.

The upper working dress of men and women was a canvas caftan. It was worn over a shirt or bishmet.

In ancient times, women's dress (kүldәk) was sewn from homespun canvas, which was then replaced by factory fabrics. The dress was sewn from a whole strip of fabric without seams on the shoulders, with wide, straight sleeves. Two wedges on the sides widen the dress downwards. The collar was low, standing, it was fastened with a hook or tied with a ribbon. There was a cutout on the chest, around which several stripes of multi-colored ribbons and several silver coins were sewn. Another type of women's dress consisted of two parts. Its top is the same as the dress described above. The lower part is gathered at the waist and a narrow strip of some bright fabric is inserted between the parts. Instead of this strip, a wide frill could be sewn, which was trimmed with strips of colored tape. It was customary to decorate this dress with multi-colored braid and embroidery.

Specific addition to women's dress is an apron (al'yapkys, al'yapkych). A simple apron was worn by men and women during various chores. Such an apron consisted of an upper and a lower part, the first of which covered the chest and was tied at the back of the neck. Ribbons in the middle of the apron were tied at the back. Even such an everyday women's apron was decorated with various embroidery. Other aprons made up a peculiar colorful ensemble together with a dress. Thus, the apron served as a cloth decoration for a Bashkir woman.

One of the types of women's fabric jewelry is a chest band (kүkrәksә) - a rectangular piece of chintz with strings at the corners. A rectangular piece of colored fabric of a smaller size, embroidered with colored threads, was sewn onto it. A chest strap was worn under the dress and covered the chest in the area of ​​the dress cut. A similar bib could have a spade-like shape; two or three rows of multi-colored ribbons were sewn onto it. The ribbons were arranged in an arc and silver coins or round metal plaques were sewn onto them. Such a bib was often sheathed with a braid.

Another type of bib (һakal) covered the entire chest, going down to the waist and below. It was a spatula-shaped piece of double fabric, trimmed with several rows of coral threads along the edges, with coins in the middle part. This bib was worn over a dress, it had two
ties at the top corners.

The seltur bib consisted of two parts. The upper fabric part was sheathed with corals. The lower part consisted of a coral mesh, lying loosely on a cloth base. Silver coins were also sewn onto such a bib. In some areas of residence of the bash-kir, it was customary to wear a special type of bib, which is a single whole with the back. This decoration covered the chest, back and shoulders. In the form of decoration, they also wore a bandage over the shoulder and chest (hәsitә), to which they attached various religious sayings, prayers, and all sorts of amulets.

Bashkir women wore special neck jewelry. Of the necklaces, coral, amber or glass beads (tөymә), as well as necklaces can be indicated. The latter could consist of large silver coins held together by metal plaques and rings. A velvet collar (muiynsa) was fastened in front with a silver buckle with pendants. Special women's headbands were decorated with various ornaments

Braiding their braids into one (girls) or two (women) braids, the Bashkirs weaved special laces into them, from which large coins were hung. Openwork or patterned metal pendants of sulpas (chulps) with coins and inserts of stones and colored glasses could have been used. Various braid decorations were also used. They could represent the fastened strands of multi-colored beads (their number reached 16). At the top, these threads were attached to the braid, at the bottom they ended in multi-colored tassels. Another decoration for braids consisted of a narrow and long colored fabric on which coins were sewn in two rows. In the upper part, a metal plaque or large agate in an openwork frame was fixed. Pendants were sewn at the bottom of the tape. This decoration was long, it went down over the braid to the waist.

Other Bashkir women's adornments include earrings, rings and rings, hairpins and clasps. On both hands, above the wrist, the Bashkir women wore bracelets (twisted silver with pendants or plate). Coins and plaques, gold and silver, carnelian and turquoise, sea shells and corals, amber and glass were most often used in women's jewelry.

The most common men's clothing, the shirt is sewn long and wide. The shirt is cut from a single piece of fabric without seams on the shoulders, wide sleeves are provided. There are no fasteners at the cut on the chest, the collar is tied with a special braided cord. Laces are made with tassels, wrapped with gold and silver threads. The Bashkir men's shirt is worn outside, often decorated with stitching along the collar, sleeves and hem.

Bashkir men wore a variety of belts. An ordinary belt (bilbau) is a piece of long factory fabric. It is folded in several layers and wrapped twice. The long belt could also be woolen, woven. A narrow belt belt had a hook-like buckle; a leather bag, a knife and a case for a donkey were hung from such a belt. The belt could have embossed patterns or could be decorated with metal plates with a silver embossed pattern. Wealthy Bashkirs wore carpets

sashes (kәmәr bilbau) with expensive silver or copper

engraved buckles. These belts were richly decorated with badges with semiprecious stones. The surface of some sashes of this kind was decorated with silver plates covered with an embossed pattern with inserted stones.

Male Bashkirs shaved their hair and wore skullcaps, a permanent headdress. Usually they wore Tatar tube-teiki made of black or red velvet. Skull-caps were decorated with tinsel, sparkles, and silver embroidery. In summer, a headdress kөlәpәrә was worn on the skullcap, somewhat reminiscent of malachai, but sewn from homespun white cloth without lining. At the end of the 19th century, felt hats became widespread. They could be hemispherical with medium-sized margins curved upward. Another type of felt hats had a tapered shape, a truncated top, and small brims.

Winter headdress malakhai (kolaksyn) was sewn from sheepskin or fox skin. This is a pointed hat with a small visor in the front. The very long ears and together with them the long back of the malachai allows you to cover the back of the head, cheekbones, shoulders and upper back. Often the kolaksin was covered with some kind of fabric on the outside. Sometimes such a hat was sewn from felt and hemmed with fur.

A round hat (bүrk) was covered with black cloth. It was sewn from sheepskin, often with edging from fox or beaver fur. A flat-cylindrical hat, slightly expanding upward, was also made of sheepskin. The bottom of such a hat was made of woolen cloth, the fur band was made of fox paws. A similar hat with a band of otter or beaver fur is called kamsat burk (kama burek).

In accordance with Muslim customs, Bashkir women always covered their heads. Usually, for this they used scarves (shawls), and older women - special long strip fabrics (tastar). The head was wrapped so that one end of the fabric lay on the chest, the other on the back. Tastar was decorated with embroidery and multicolored stitching. Women's headdress kashau is a kind of cap, sewn from canvas and trimmed with coins and corals. A long (floor-length) blade made of homemade woolen fabric is sewn onto the back of this cap. The kashau was put on the head and fastened with a special buckle under the chin.

Another female headdress - takya - is a hemispherical canvas cap, trimmed along the edge and in the center with colored fabric. The surface of the cap is entirely sheathed with silver coins, and a metal knob is placed at the top. Three rows of corals are sewn around the knob. The bottom of this headdress ends with a fringe of coral threads, coins are attached to the ends of the threads. The Bashkirs also wore a headband (karauys) embroidered with silk. In winter, in addition to shawls, fur hats (kama bүrk) were also worn.

The Bashkirs' winter outerwear was varied, long and wide fur coats (tun) and short fur coats (bille tun) with straight backs, covered with cloth or other fabric. Sheepskin coats were sewn from white sheepskin, which were popular winter clothing for men and women, designed for bitter frosts and blizzards. The sheepskin coat was sewn spacious, very long. Men wore it with a belt.

furs, etc. Special fur coats were sewn from horse skins with fur outside - yylky tun. Such a fur coat could be worn over a sheepskin coat (A similar fur coat made from the skin of a foal is called colon tun). When cutting these fur coats, it was envisaged that the manes should go the full length of the fur coat along the back and shoulders, along the sleeves.

As for footwear, one of the most widespread types was shoe covers (saryk) - an ordinary leather sole with a leather toe and a cloth top without soles and heels sewn to it. For the manufacture of shoe covers, rawhide was used, they were sewn with horse tendons, and later they began to use dratva. These shoes were knee-high and tied at the top with laces woven from colored wool. A teal made of grass or straw was placed inside. Low leather backs and several triangles of leather were sewn to men's shoe covers as decoration. Women's shoe covers were decorated on the back with embroidery with colored cloth.

Boots (Itek), sewn from rawhide horse leather, with rather thick soles and a low heel, were also permanent footwear. The tops of the boots were made short, the toe was straight and wide. Women's boots were made more graceful, they could be made and patterned. Soft morocco boots (sitek, chitek) were worn in a non-working setting. When going outside, rubber galoshes or special leather shoes were worn on boots.

Felt galoshes and felt boots were used as winter footwear. Poor masses both in winter and in summer could pass in bast shoes - in bast shoes (sabata, chabata). They were woven neat and light, and in the dry summer season they were the most comfortable work shoes. One of the types of bast shoes - bashimly sabata is weaved from bast with birch bark ribbons. A cloth top is sewn to the tightly woven lower part, which is tightened with a cord around the leg.

Shoes were worn with canvas or cloth onuchi and stockings. Short onuchi (sylgau, chylgau) were worn with boots, and long ones (yshtyr) - with bast shoes. Stockings are different: knitted woolen stockings (bәilәm oyok), woolen stockings made of homespun cloth (tula oyok), felt (keyes oyok). Felt white stockings were commonly worn by men during the winter.

V recent decades Bashkir national clothes, shoes, women's jewelry left the stage. In this sense, the Bashkirs are Europeanized. Traditional clothes and shoes can only be seen in museums and theaters. True, fashion salons have already begun to turn to historical sources. national dress and shoes, but still very timidly. It's a pity, because this is a whole layer of the traditional culture of the people!