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Kalashi - a small Darque people, inhabiting the three valleys of the right tributaries of the Chitral River (Kunar) in the mountains of the South Hindukush in the Citraral Crank Cittal (Pakistan). Native language - Kalash - refers to the Darque group of Indoran languages. The uniqueness of the people, from all sides of the Islamic neighbors surrounded by Islamized neighbors, is that a significant part of it still confesses the pagan religion that established on the basis of Indoran religion and substrate beliefs. (Wikipedia)

High in the mountains of Pakistan on the border with Afghanistan, in the province of Nursan, several tiny plateaus are scattered. Locals calls this area of \u200b\u200bChintal. The unique and mysterious people live here - Kalashi. Their uniqueness lies in the fact that this Indo-European on the origin of the people managed to survive almost in the heart of the Islamic world.

Meanwhile, Kalashi confess not Islam, but polytheism (polybetos), that is, they are pagans. If Kalashi were represented by numerous numerous people With a separate territory and statehood, their existence would hardly have anyone surprised, but today no more than 6 thousand people have been preserved - they are the most miniature and mysterious ethnic group of the Asian region.

In Pakistan, the belief is common that Kalashi are descendants of the warriors of Alexander Macedonian (in connection with which the Government of Macedonia built a focus of culture in this area, see, for example, "Macedonia Gradi Kulturien Centur Kahu Huntsite in Pakistan"). The appearance of some kalays is characteristic of the North European peoples, there are often blue-eyed and blondism among them. In this case, part of the kalaks have a completely characteristic of the region asian appearance.

I will express my opinion a little. I certainly have nothing against A. Macedonsky, but look at the card of his campaigns, how historians presented them

it seems that A. Makedonsky loved the mountains to climb India easier to walk along the shore, closer and even more. With Central Asia, generally misunderstood, descended from the mountains, it seems to beat the Scythians, it seems further to the north the most tasty begins, but no, it seems like Greek merchants told on there is not interesting and climbed Sasha again in the mountains. Bedian full. It was logical to assume two options, or the Scythians of A. Macedonsky were pounded by the first number and drove him again on the top, or there was never it there. Well, I do not believe that you could carry the army on the mountain paths of the army in several tens of thousands. And who is there to conquer? In these areas, and now, few people live, and at that time ... But nevertheless, there are "researchers" who consider: "The most unexplained secret tribe of Kalashi is their origin. This is a mystery, over whom the ethnographers of the whole world are broken. However The mountain pagan themselves explain their appearance in Asia simply. Another thing is that it is not so easy to separate the truth from myths. ... Kalashi assure that their people have formed as a single conquel 4 thousand years ago, but not in the mountains of Pakistan, but far Behind the seas, where the world was ruled by the inhabitants of Olympus. But the day came when some Kalashov went to a military campaign under the leadership of the legendary Alexander Macedonsky. It happened in 400 BC. Already in Asia, the Macedonian left several burglars of Kalash in local settlements, strictly setting the punishment by him to wait for his return. "http://masterok.livejournal.com/948551.html So not just a troop of A. Macedon tuskal, and the army with families! And who is traveling to you to pursue I will get bored myself. Well, okay, leave historical historians.

Religion of most Kalashov - paganism; Their pantheon has a lot of common features with a reconstructed ancient Aryan pantheon. The approval of some journalists that Kalashi worship " ancient Greek gods", unfounded. At the same time, about 3 thousand Kalashov - Muslims. The transition to Islam is not welcomed by Kalashi trying to preserve their generic identity. Kalashi are not descendants of Alexander Macedonian warriors, and the North European appearance of the part of them is due to the preservation of the initial Indo-European Genofond as a result The representatives of the Hunza people also have such anthropological characteristics to be dismissed. Along with the Kalash. ethnic groups Pamir residents, Persians, etc.

Scientists belong to the Kalash for the White Ross are a fact. Persons from many Kalashi - purely European. White skin, unlike Pakistanis and Afghans. And bright and often blue eyes - as a passport of incorrect Cafira. Eyes have blue, gray, green and very rarely brown. There is another touch, which does not fit into a common culture and life to the Muslims of Pakistan and Afghanistan. Kalashi have always been manufactured for themselves and enjoyed furniture. They eat at the table, sitting on the chairs - excesses that have never been inherent in local "Aboriginal" and appeared in Afghanistan and Pakistan only with the arrival of the British in HVIII-HIH centuries, but did not fit. And Kalashi, the time of centuries used the tables and chairs ...

Horse warriors of Kalashi. Museum in Islamabad. Pakistan.

At the end of the first millennium, Islam came to Asia, and with him the misfortunes of Indo-European and in particular the people of Kalashov, who did not want to change the faith of ancestors to the Avramic "Teaching of the Book." Survive in Pakistan, confessing paganism, is almost hopeless. Local Muslim communities persistently tried to force the Kalash to accept Islam. And many Kalashi were forced to obey: either to live, accepting a new religion, or die. In the XVIII-nineteenth centuries, Muslim was cut out by thousands of thousands. Those who have not obeyed and at least secretly sent pagan cults, the authorities at best chased with fertile lands, driving into the mountains, and more often - destroyed. The cruel genocide of the People of Kalash continued until the middle of the XIX century, while the tiny territory, which Muslims called Kafirstan (the land of incorrect), where Kalashi lived, did not come under the jurisdiction of the British Empire. It saved them from full extermination. But now Kalashi is on the verge of extinction. Many are forced to assimilate (through marriage) with Pakistanis and Afghans, taking Islam, it is easier to survive and get a job, education, position.

Life of modern Kalash can be called Spartan. Kalashi live by communities - it is easier to survive. They live in homes that build out of stone, wood and clay. The roof of the lower house (floor) is simultaneously the floor or veranda of the house of another family. Of all the amenities in the hut: the table, chairs, benches and clay dishes. About electricity and television Kalashi know only the first. Shovel, hoe and kylo - they are clearer and more familiar. Life resources they draw in agriculture. Kalashi manage to grow wheat and other grain crops on lands separated from stone. But the main role in their livelihoods is played by cattle, mostly goats, which give the descendants of the ancient Aryans milk and milk products, wool and meat. In everyday life, a clear and unshakable separation of responsibilities is striking: men are first in labor and hunting, women only help them in the least labor-intensive operations (weeding, daughter, household). In the house, men sit at the head of the table and take all the significant solutions in the family (in the community). For women in each settlement, Bologna is built - a separate house where women communities give birth to children and spend time in "critical days." Woman to give birth to a child. The woman of Kalash is obliged only in the Bashley, and therefore pregnant ladies settle in the "maternity hospital". Where such a tradition came from, no one knows, but other segregation and discriminatory tendencies against women in Kalash is not observed that he infuriates and laughs Muslims, which are from for this to Kalash, how people are not from this world ...

Kalashi do not know the weekend, but they have fun and bicked up 3 holidays: Yoshi - Holiday sowing, studio - Holiday festival, and Choymus - Winter holiday of nature gods, when Kalashi ask Gods to send them a soft winter and good spring and summer. In addition to Kalashi The family scores a goat as a sacrifice, whose meat is treated for everyone who goes to visit or will meet on the street.

Kalashi language, or Kalash - the language of the Darque group of the Indoran branch of the Indo-European language family. It is common among the Kalashai in several Gindukusha Valleys, the south-west of the city of Chitral in the North-West Border Province of Pakistan. Belonging to the Darque subgroup is in question, since a little more than half of words are similar to those equivalent to the meaning in the language of Khowar, which also enters this subgroup. From the point of view of phonology, the language is atypical (Heegård & Mørch 2004).

In Kalash language, the basic vocabulary composition of Sanskrit is very well preserved, for example:

Russian Kalasha Sanskritgolova shish shishkost athi asthimocha mutra mutraderevnya grom grampetlya rajuk rajjudym thum dhummaslo tel telmyaso mos massobaka shua shvamuravey pililak pipilikasyn putr putrdlinny driga dirghavosem asht ashtaslomanny chhina chhinnaubivat nash nashV 1980s began writing development for the Kalash language in two versions - the Latin and Persian graphics. The Persian version turned out to be preferable and in 1994 the illustrated alphabet and reading a book on Kalash language based on Persian graphics came out. In the 2000s, an active transition to Latin font began. In 2003, the Alphabet "KAL" AS "A ALIBE" was issued. (English)

Religion and Culture Kalash

The first researchers and missionaries began to penetrate Cafyristan after the colonization of India, but under this surround information about its inhabitants provided the English doctor Georg Scott Robertson, who visited Kafiristan in 1889 and lived there during the year. The uniqueness of the Robertson expedition is that they were assembled material on the rites and traditions of kafirs to the Islamic invasion. Unfortunately, a number of collected materials were lost when crossing the ind to India during his return to India. However, the preserved materials and personal memories allowed him to publish in 1896 the book "Kafirs of Hindu-Kush" ("The Kafirs of Hindu-Kush") based on the observations of the religious and ritual side of the life of Kafirs made by Robertson, it is reasonable to say that their Religion - resembles transformed Zoroastrianism and cults of ancient Arya. The main arguments in favor of this approval are the attitude towards fire and funeral rite. Below we describe some traditions, religious foundations, religious buildings and rites of kafirs. The source of worship was fire. In addition to fire, Kafira worshiped wooden idols, which were cut out skillfully craftsmen and exhibited in the sanctuations. Pantheon consisted of many gods and goddesses. The main thing was the God of Imra. Also very revered was the god of war gisha. Each village had his petty patron god. The world, according to believing, was inhabited by a lot of good and evil spirits.

Kapache with tribades

Labor pillar in the temple

Single pillar with a stewed outlet

Finally, one of the most important was the rite of burial. The funeral procession at the beginning was accompanied by a loud female crying and due, and then ritual dancing under the battle of the drums and accompaniment of reed duff. Men, in the sign of mourning, put on on top of the clothes goat skins. The procession ended in the cemetery, where only women and slaves were allowed. The late cafes, as it should be on the canons of Zoroastrianism, did not burst into the ground, and left in wooden coffins in the open air. Takov, according to the colorful descriptions of Robertson, were rituals of one of the lost branches of an ancient powerful and influential religion. Unfortunately, it is already difficult to check where the scrupulous statement of reality here is here, and where artistic fiction is. In any case, today we have no reason to question Robertson told. Kalash cemetery. Graves strongly resemble the northern Russian tombstones - home

Source http://avator1.livejournal.com/15898.html There are also described some rituals and there are still photos. In the blog I used the photos in which explicit representatives are depicted. And these are still descendants ... Wikipedia said the following: "Latest genetic studies show that Kalashi demonstrate a set of haplogroups, the usual for Indo-Afghan population. Typical Y-chromosomal haplogroups for Kalash are: L (25%) , R1A (18.2%), G (18.2%), J2 (9.1%); mitochondrial (MTDNA): L3A (22.7%), H1 * (20.5%) .. However Joint studies of the University of Common Genetics, the University of General Genetics, the University of Southern California and Standford, Kalasham are devoted to a separate paragraph, which states that their genes are really unique and belong to the European Group. " For example, a photo of the representative of the people of Erzya people, caught on the site with a question "Guess the national affiliation of the girl." The first assumption that answered was "Kalash"

Erzya is a subethnosis of the Mordovian ethnos-people (Mordva). With V c. lived to S.-Z. From Moksha, on ter. Sovr. Ryazan and Nizhny Novgorod region

Whatever there was no, but even the remaining 3 thousand people surrounded by aggressively tuned Muslims did not betray their gods, which you can't tell about us. Ask, when the black strip will end for the Russian people, and that at all times he was supposed for betrayal?

In contact with

Odnoklassniki.

The neighbors are that a significant part of it still confesses the pagan religion that established on the basis of Indoran religion and substrate beliefs.

History and ethnonym

Inhabiting chitrals, Darodenan peoples usually unanimously consider the edges by the aborigines. The Kalashi themselves are led by the fact that their ancestors came to chitral across the bumps and pushed the people of Ko to the north, in the ridge of the River Chitral. Nevertheless, Kalash language is closely related to the language of Khowar. Perhaps this legend reflects the arrival in the XV century. In the chitral of the militant nuring language group, which conquered the local dardo-speaking population. This group separated from the carriers of the Vaigali language, still calling themselves Kalašüm, passed its self-conception and many traditions to the local population, but was assimilated in the linguistic terms.

The idea of \u200b\u200bthe Kalash as Aborigines is based on the fact that in the former times of Kalashi inhabited a more extensive range in the southern chitral, where many toponyms are still calash. With the loss of the militancy of Kalashi in these places were gradually ousted or assimilated by carriers of the leading chitral language Khowar.

Region region

The village of Kalash is located at an altitude of 1900-2200 m above sea level. Kalashi inhabit three side valleys formed by the right (Western) tributaries of the Chitral River (Kunar): Ajungol with tributaries Bumbortegol (Kalash. Mumret) and Rumburgol (Armus), and Bibirgol (Birou), at a distance of approximately 20 km south of Chitral. The first two valleys are connected in the lower reaches, to the third in Kalash ethnic territory leads the height of OK. 3000 m. Pass through the western ridge lead to Afghanistan, in the region of resettlement of the Nurstan Nationality of Kati.

The climate is pretty soft and wet. The average annual level of precipitation is 700-800 mm. The average temperature in summer - 25 ° C, in winter - 1 ° C. Valleys are characterized by fertility, the slopes are covered with oak forests.

Racial type and genetics

Recently, Kalashi received wide fame not only due to the unique religion, but also the usual people for this, light hair and the eyes, which in antiquity, he gave rise to the plain peoples of the legend of Kalash as the descendants of the warriors Alexander Macedonsky, and today sometimes interpreted in popular literature as a heritage " Nordic Aryans "and the indicator of the special proximity to the ears of European peoples. Nevertheless, weakened pigmentation is characteristic only for the part of the population, most of the crowns of the dark-headed and show the characteristic Mediterranean type inherent in their flat neighbors. Homozygous inbreeding depigmentation is characteristic of one degree or another for all those surrounding peoples, millennia living in isolated endogamous conditions of mountain valleys with a very weak influx of gene pool from the outside: Nurstantsev, Dardov, Pamir peoples, as well as non-invo-European aborigines Burisha. Last genetic studies show that Kalashi demonstrate a set of haplogroups, usual for Indo-Afghan population. Typical Y-chromosomal haplogroups for Kalash are: (25%), R1A (18.2%), (18.2%), (9.1%); Mitochondrial: L3A (22.7%), H1 * (20.5%).

Traditional farm and public device

Nevertheless, cases of appeal to Islam Kalash took place throughout newest Story People. The amount of them increased after the 1970s, when the roads were laid in the edge and school began to be built in the villages of Kalash. The appeal to Islam leads to the rupture of traditional connections, as says one of Kalashi Starin Sayfull Jan: "If someone from Kalash appeals to Islam, they can no longer live among us." As K.Yettmar notes, Kalashi Muslims with undisguised envy looks at Kalash pagan dances and funny festivals. Currently, the pagan religion, which attracts the attention of numerous European tourists, is under the protection of the Pakistani government, who is fascinating the extinction of the tourist industry in the event of the final "Celebration of Islam".

Nevertheless, Islam and Islamic culture of neighboring peoples have a great influence on the lives of the pagans and their beliefs, filling with plots and motifs of Muslim mythology. Kalashi was adopted by the neighbors men's clothing and names. Under the onslaught of civilization gradually collapses traditional image Life, in particular, go into non-existence "Holidays merit". Nevertheless, still the valleys of Kalash are a unique reserve, preserving one of the most archaic Indo-European cultures.

Religion

The traditional views of the Kalashi about the world are based on opposing holiness and sewage. Highly hosses have mountains and mountain pastures, where the gods live and graze "their cattle" - wild goats. Saints are also Altari and Goat Glev. Unclean are Muslim lands. Unclean is also inherent in a woman, especially during periods of monthly and childbirth. Desecration brings everything related to death. Like the Vedic religion and Zoroastrianism, Religion Kalash provides for numerous cleansing ceremonies from the bad.

The Kalash Pantheon (Devalog) is generally similar to the pantheon, which existed from the Nurstan neighbors, and includes many deities of the same name, although somewhat different from the latter. There are also ideas about numerous lower demons, especially female.

Kalash's sanctuary is altars, built-in open-air from the juniper or oak board and furnished with ritual carved boards and idols of the deities. Special buildings are constructed for religious dances. Kalash rituals are primarily in public feasts that gods are invited. Brightly expressed the ritual role of young young men who have not yet known the woman, that is, possessing the highest purity.

Religious rites

The pagan deities of Kalash have a large number of Temples and altars throughout the valley of their people. They prevent themselves the victims mainly consisting of horses, goats, cows and sheep, whose breeding is one of the main fishes of the local population. Also, they leave wine on the altars thereby bringing victim to the Indrod, the god of grapes. Rituals of Kalaks are combined with holidays and in general are similar to the Vedi.

Like the carriers of Vedic culture, Kalashi consider raven with their ancestors and feed them out of the left hand. The dead bury over the ground in special wooden coffins with the ornament, as well as rich representatives of Kalash set over the coffin, a wooden stuffy died.

In the word, Gandau Kalashi is called the gravestone monuments of Kalashsky Valleys and Kafiristan, which differ depending on what status in life reached the dead. Kundrik is the second variety of anthropomorphic wooden sculptures of the ancestors in Kalash. It is a statue of the charm, which is installed on the fields or in the village on the elevation - a wooden pole or folded from the pedestal stones.

Threat disappearance

At the moment, the culture and ethnos of Kalash is under threat of disappearance. They live in closed communities, but the young population is increasingly forced to assimilate, entering into marriage with the Islamic population, this is due to the fact that Muslim is easier to find a job and feed the family. Also Kalashi get threats from various Islamist organizations.

Kalashi - a small Dardian people, inhabiting two valleys of the right tributaries of the Chitral River (Kunar) in the mountains of the South Gygestukush in the Citraral Cittal County (Pakistan) province. Native language - Kalash - refers to the Darque group of Indoran languages. The uniqueness of the people, from all sides of the Islamic neighbors surrounded by Islamized neighbors, is that a significant part of it still confesses the paganism, which established on the basis of Indoran religion and substrate beliefs.

If Kalashi were a numerous people with a separate territory and statehood, their existence would hardly have anyone surprised, but today no more than 6 thousand people have been preserved - they are the most miniature and mysterious ethnic group of the Asian region.

Kalashi (self-talent: Kasivo; The name "Kalash" comes from the name of the area) - Nature in Pakistan, living in high-mountainous areas of Hindukusha (Nuristan or Kafirst). The number is about 6 thousand people. They were almost completely exterminated as a result of the Muslim genocide by the beginning of the 20th century, as they confess paganism. Lead a closed lifestyle. They speak the Kalash language of the Darque Group of Indo-European languages \u200b\u200b(however, about half of the words of their language have no analogues in other Darodi languages, as in the languages \u200b\u200bof neighboring peoples). In Pakistan, the belief is common that Kalashi are descendants of the warriors of Alexander Macedonian (in connection with which the Government of Macedonia built a focus of culture in this area, see, for example, "Macedonia Gradi Kulturien Centur Kahu Huntsite in Pakistan"). The appearance of some kalays is characteristic of the North European peoples, there are often blue-eyed and blondism among them. In this case, part of the kalaks have a completely characteristic of the region asian appearance.

Religion of most Kalashov - paganism; Their pantheon has a lot of common features with a reconstructed ancient Aryan pantheon. The approval of some journalists that Kalashi worship "the ancient Greek gods" are unfounded. At the same time, about 3 thousand Kalashov - Muslims. The transition to Islam is not welcomed by Kalash, trying to preserve their generic identity. Kalashi are not descendants of the warriors of Alexander Macedonsky, and the North European appearance of the part of them is due to the preservation of the initial Indo-European Genofond as a result of a refusal of mixing with the progress of the non-Russian population. Along with the Kalash, representatives of the people of Hunza and some ethnic groups of Pamir residents, Persians, and others also possess similar anthropological characteristics.

Scientists belong to the Kalash for the White Ross are a fact. Persons from many Kalashi - purely European. White skin, unlike Pakistanis and Afghans. And light and often have a needal eye - as a passport of incorrect Cafira. Eyes have blue, gray, green and very rarely brown. There is another touch, which does not fit into a common culture and life to the Muslims of Pakistan and Afghanistan. Kalashi have always been manufactured for themselves and enjoyed furniture. They eat at the table, sitting on the chairs, - excesses that have never been inherent in local "Aboriginal" and appeared in Afghanistan and Pakistan only with the arrival of the British in the 21st centuries, but did not fit. And Kalashi, the time of centuries used the tables and chairs ...

At the end of the first millennium, Islam came to Asia, and with him and the troubles of the Indo-European and in particular the people of Kalashov, who did not want to change the faith of ancestors to the Avhramic "Teaching of the Book." Survive in Pakistan, confessing paganism, is almost hopeless. Local Muslim communities persistently tried to force the Kalash to accept Islam. And many Kalashi were forced to obey: either to live, accepting a new religion, or die. In the XVIII-nineteenth centuries, Muslim was cut out by thousands of thousands. Those who have not obeyed and at least secretly sent pagan cults, the authorities at best chased with fertile lands, driving into the mountains, and more often - destroyed.

The cruel genocide of the People of Kalash continued until the middle of the XIX century, while the tiny territory, which Muslims called Kafirstan (the land of incorrect), where Kalashi lived, did not come under the jurisdiction of the British Empire. It saved them from full extermination. But now Kalashi is on the verge of extinction. Many are forced to assimilate (through marriage) with Pakistanis and Afghans, taking Islam, it is easier to survive and get a job, education, position.

Kalash village

In everyday life, a clear and unshakable division of duties is striking: men are first in labor and hunting, women only help them in the least laborious operations (weeding, daughter, household). In the house, men sit at the head of the table and take all the significant solutions in the family (in the community). For women, Bologna is built in every settlement - a separate house where women communities give birth to children and spend time in "critical days." Calash's woman to give birth to a child only in the Bashley, and therefore pregnant ladies settle in the "maternity hospital". Where such a tradition came from, no one knows, but other segregation and discriminatory tendencies against women in Kalash is not observed that he infuriates and laughs Muslims, which are from for this to Kalash, how people are not from this world ...

Part of the Kalaks have a completely characteristic Asian appearance for the region, but they often have blue or green eyes.

Marriage. This scrupulous question is solved exclusively parents of young. They can advise with young, can talk to the bride's parents (groom), and can solve the problem without asking their opinions.

Kalashi do not know the weekend, but they have fun and pretty celebrating 3 holidays: Yoshi is a sowing holiday, the studio of the harvest, and Choymus - Winter holiday of nature gods, when Kalashi ask Gods to send them a soft winter and good spring and summer.
During Choymus, every family scores a goat as a sacrifice, whose meat is treated for everyone who goes to visit or will meet on the street.

In Kalash language, the basic vocabulary composition of Sanskrit is very well preserved, for example:

In the 1980s, the development of writing for the Kalash language in two versions was based on Latin and Persian graphics. The Persian version turned out to be preferable and in 1994 the illustrated alphabet and reading a book on Kalash language based on Persian graphics came out. In the 2000s, an active transition to Latin font began. In 2003, the Alphabet "Kal'as'a Alibe" was issued. (eng.)

Religion and Culture Kalash

The pagan temple of Kalash. In the center of the generic post.

Based on the observations of the religious and ritual side of the life of Kafirs made by Robertson, it is possible that their religion is reminiscent of transformed Zoroastrianism and the cults of the ancient Aryans. The main arguments in favor of this approval are the attitude towards the fire and the funeral rite. Below we will describe some traditions, religious foundations, religious buildings and krafir rites.

The main, "Metropolitan" of Kafirov was a village called "Camdysh". The houses of Kamdysh were located in steps on the slopes of the mountains, so the roof of one house was a yard for another. The houses were richly decorated with a sophisticated wooden carvings. Not men, but women, were engaged in field work, although men pre-cleaned the field from stones and fallen logs. Men at this time were engaged in sewing clothes, ritual dancing on rural square and solving public affairs.

The main object of worship was the fire. In addition to fire, Kafira worshiped wooden idols, which were cut out skillfully craftsmen and exhibited in the sanctuations. Pantheon consisted of many gods and goddesses. The main thing was the God of Imra. Also very revered was the god of war gisha. Each village had his petty patron god. The world, according to believing, was inhabited by a lot of good and evil spirits.

Generic post with a stewed outlet.

V. Sarianidi, relying on the testimony of Robertson, describes the cult facilities like this:

"... The main temple of Imra was in one of the villages and was a large structure with a square portico, the roof of which was supported by carved wooden columns. Some of the columns were completely decorated with sculptural heads of the rams, others had only an animal head carved in a round relief, whose horns, whipping the barrel of the column and crossed, climbed up, forming a peculiar openwork grid. In her empty cells there were sculptural figures of funny men.

It is here, under a portion, on a special stone, blackened from bored blood, and numerous animal sacrifices were performed. The front facade of the temple had seven doors, famous in that each of them was still arranged on one small door. Large doors were tightly closed, only two side opened, and even that in particularly solemn cases. But the main interest was the sash of doors, decorated with fine carvings and huge embossed figures that were portrayed by the Sitting God. Especially amazing the face of God with a huge square chin, reaching almost the knees! In addition to the figures of God, Imra Facade of the Temple adorned images of huge heads of cows and rams. From the opposite side of the temple, five colossal figures supported by its roof were installed.

Walking around the temple and admiring him with a carved "shirt", look through a small hole inward, which, however, you need to make a sneak, so as not to offend the religious feelings of kafirs. In the middle of the room in a cool dusk can be seen directly on the floor square focus, in the corners of which the poles are installed, also covered with amazingly thin threads, which is an image humanians. On the opposite wall of the wall, an altar framed by images of animals is arranged; In the corner under a special Baldakhin there is a wooden statue of God himself. The remaining walls of the temple are decorated with carved hats of the wrong hemispherical shape planted on the ends of the poles. ... Separate temples were built only for the main gods, and for the minor, one sanctuary for several Goddow was erected. So, there were small chemisters with carved windows, of which the faces of different wooden idols peeking out. "

Among the most important rituals were the choice of elders, cooking wine, sacrifices of gods and burial. Like most rituals, the choice of elders was accompanied by mass sacrifices of goats and abundant treats. Elections of the chief elder (Justa) were made by elders from among the elders. These elections were also accompanied by the reading of sacred hymns dedicated to the gods, sacrifices and treats the gathered elders in the candidate's house:

"... The priests present on the feast sit down in the center of the room, wound a magnificent turban on his head, richly decorated with shells, red glass beads, and in front - Archie twigs. His ears are manifolding earrings, the neck is wearing a massive necklace, and on the hand - bracelets. The long shirt, reaching the knees, is freely descending on embroidered pants, refilled in boots with long-top. A bright silk Badakhshan bathrobe is screwed over on top of this clothing, a dance ritual actuator will be covered in her hand.

Here is one of the sitting elders slowly gets up and, riding her head with white matter, stands forward. He takes off his boots, thoroughly my hands and starts sacrifices. Handbooks of two huge mountain goats, he depends on a stream of blood vessel, and then, approaching the dedication, draws his blood on his forehead. The door to the room will be distinguished, and the servants make huge caravas of breads with branches stuck in them. These caravas are solemnly separated around the dedication. Then after another abundant treat, the hour of ritual dancing occurs. Dance boots and special scarves, which they pull the lower back are distributed to several guests. Pine torches are lit, and ritual dancing and chants begin in honor of numerous gods. "

Another important rite of kafirs was the rite of preparation of grape wines. To prepare wine, a man was elected, who, thoroughly kneading his legs, began to press the grape borders brought by women. Grape borders were hampered in wicker baskets. After a thorough crush, the grape juice looked into huge jugs and left for fermentation.

The festive ritual in honor of God Gisch flowed like this:

"... In the early morning of the villagers, the thunder of many drums wake up, and a priest appears on narrow curves, a priest appears with rigging metal bells. Following the priest, the crowd of boys, whom he from time to time throws the hassle of nuts, and then with her festive ferocity rushes them. Accompaning him, the children imitate the tears of Kozlov. The face of the priest is lowered with flour and coating on top of the oil, in one hand he holds bells, in another - a secure. Justing and writhing, he shakes the bells and secircuits, highlighting almost acrobatic numbers and accompanying them with terrible cries. Finally, the procession approaches the sanctuary of God Hisch, and adult participants are solemnly located in a semicircle near the priest and accompanying him. Here, the dust shoulded aside, and it seemed a herd out of fifteen bleaching goats, customized by boys. By doing its job, they immediately run away from adults to engage in children's pits and games ...

The priest comes up to the burning fire from the cedar branches, giving a thick white smoke. Nearby are pre-prepared four wooden vessels with flour, melted oil, wine and water. The priest is thoroughly my hands, removes shoes, pours a few drops of oil into the fire, then sprinkles sacrificial goat three times, saying: "Be clean." Approaching the closed door of the sanctuary, it pours and pours the contents of wooden vessels, pronouncing ritual spells. Priests serving Young guys quickly cut the throat of a goat, they collect splashed blood into the vessels, and the priest then splashing her into a burning fire. In the continuation of this procedure, a special person illuminated by the flaws of fire all the time sacred sacred songs all the time, which gives this scene a shade of special solemnity.

Suddenly, another priest breaks off his hat and, rushing forward, begins to twitch, shouting loudly and mad swinging his hands. The master priest is trying to take the separated "colleague", finally calms down and, waving his arms several times, puts on a hat and sit down in his place. The ceremony ends with reading poems, after which the priests and all those present concern their LBs by the ends of the fingers and make the kiss sign lips, meaning a religious greeting of the sanctuary.

In the evening, in complete exhaustion, the priest comes into the first home and puts his bells to storage his bells, which is a great honor for the latter, and he immediately orders to put down a few goats and arrange a feast in honor of the priest and his environments. So in the continuation of two weeks with small variations, celebrations in honor of God Guisch continue. "

Kalash cemetery. The graves strongly resemble the northern Russian tombstones are home.

Those, according to the colorful descriptions of Robertson, were rituals of one of the lost branches of an ancient powerful and influential religion. Unfortunately, it is already difficult to check where the scrupulous statement of reality here is here, and where artistic fiction is. In any case, today we have no reason to question Robertson told.

The article uses materials from Wikipedia, Igor Naumova, V. Sarianidi.

It all started with the fact that one of our familiar Englishman on the question "Where best to go in July?", Not thinking, answered: "In the mountains of Pakistan." Mountains of Pakistan were not associated with something pleasant with something, especially since these places that are at the junction of the borders of the three states - Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Pakistan, you can't call the most calm on Earth. "And where is now calm?" - asked the Englishman. There was nothing to answer this.

And we heard from him that there, in hard-to-reach valleys, the Kalash tribe, leading his story allegedly from the soldiers of Alexander Macedon's army, which Kalashi is really like the Europeans and that they are known quite a bit about them, because they have recently been fully isolated from external world. "I don't think it's true that you will be able to get to them ..." - added the Englishman. After that, we could no longer go.

Let's fly in Peshawar with a stop in Dubai. We fly a little nervously, because we are trying to remember that good in Russia is connected with the word Peshawar. Only the war in Afghanistan, the Taliban and the fact that it was from Peshawara on May 1, 1960 that the U-2 aircraft flew out, shot down by Soviet air defense. In Peshawar, arrive early in the morning. We are scared.

But it was not scary. After we were quite politely missed through passport control, where russian passports There were no suspicions (although we were noted in some separate little book), we realized that our concerns were in vain - run forward, I would say that it was rare in which country of the world to us more openly and trustfully.

Peshawar surprised from the first minute. Coming through the customs in the building of the airport, we saw the wall completely equally dressed people - long shirts, on the heads - hats that we saw in films about the Mujahideen. And all this wall is solid men.

Most of the population of Peshawar - administrative Center The North-West Border Province of Pakistan, on the very north of which was the ultimate goal of our journey, the Kalash Valley, - Pashtun. They are, as we know, do not recognize the border between Afghanistan and Pakistan (the so-called "Durand line" conducted by the British in 1893) and constantly transfers from one country to another. In this part of Pakistan, Islamic traditions are particularly strong, and all women are sitting on the houses, and if occasionally and go outside, they are closed from head to legs in shapeless clothes. That is why the streets in Peshawar are completely dressed in long shirts and dimensionless pants of men and children. Having passed through their ranks, we were picked up by the guide and taken to the hotel. Throughout the journey along the North-Western Border Province, we have never met a person dressed in a different way. Even in the mirror of the advantage of this clothing, ideally suitable for the local climate, we have appreciated the next day. The differences are manifested only in the colors of matter, although the options here are a bit - white, green, blue, purple and black. This uniform creates a strange sense of equality and unity. However, our Pakistani friends assured us that the whole question in the cost - many would change in European clothes, do not be so expensive. It was hard for us to imagine the convenience of jeans at 40 degrees of heat and 100 percent moisture ...

Arriving to the hotel and having acquainted with her director, we learned that during recent US hostilities in Afghanistan, the hotel business survived a brief epoch "Golden Age". Many journalists lived in Peshawar, so that from there to break into Afghanistan, or simply conducted live broadcasts from the city. This short period Brought good money - toilets and bathrooms passed to journalists for $ 100 per day. The rest of the population received dividends, depicting militant demonstrations - there are situations where some event had passed or was not colorful enough, but now 100, and better than $ 200, it is quite able to embellish him and even repeat it ... At the same time, the "golden age" served And the bad service - the TV cameras diverged throughout the light, and the peaceful residents of the Earth had the impression that Peshawar was constantly a bubble boiler, and therefore, since then, foreigners have not seen the foreigners in the local hotels ...

Peshawar has an ancient and rich history. The date of its foundation is lost in the I millennium BC. e. It is located at the exit from the Hibiber Pass, leading from Afghanistan to India, is the main path of merchants and conquerors. In the first century, Peshawar became the capital of the Kushan kingdom and an important center Buddhism. In the 6th century, the city was destroyed and many centuries were in launch. And in the XVI century, he again acquired importance as the major city center of the Empire of the Great Mughal.

The word "Peshawar" is often translated as "City of Flowers", although there are many other versions of its origin - and the Persian City, and the city of Purrus in honor of the forgotten king Inde, and the like. Himself to peshvarians like to think that they live in the city of colors, especially since in the past he really was a glorious gardens. Nowadays, the rhythm of life in Peshawar is in many ways the proximity to Afghanistan - a huge number of Afghan refugees of the time of another Soviet-Afghan conflict. Officially, their total number is more than 2 million people, but their real amount is hardly possible to determine. Well, the lives of people who left their places, as you know, not easy. Therefore, not all types of smuggling flourish, as well as business for the manufacture of weapons (we even suggested to ride the process of producing cheap cars Kalashnikov, but we did not go). Although most of course employed by peaceful affairs - agriculture and trade. Pakistanis told us that they were not complaining about them in Afghanistan, and when they had to go there, they prefer to issue themselves for the resident of any other state.

And the Pakistan-Afghan boiler continues to boil. Afghans perceive the Taliban as Pakistani aggressors, and not as liberators. Pakistanis is not a joke, the huge flows of Afghan refugees who are forced to help their state. At the same time, Pakistanis offend that Afghans do not feel any sense of gratitude to them - because they do not recognize the borders between countries, respectively, and they do not consider refugees. And deal with who is right who is to blame is not possible.

We walked along Peshawaru ... The city is far from being better. Many houses in the center are abandoned, the streets are not always put in order. At the same time, people on the streets are quite optimistic and friendly. We have never caught suspicious or hostile views on themselves, even on the contrary, we were allowed to shoot almost everything. The distinctive feature of Peshawar is huge old buses. Painted by all unthinkable flowers, with fluttering black scraps of matter (to drive off the evil spirits), they continuously sign up and go through the streets of the city as pirated ships. On the day, when we arrived, the rain was held in Peshawar and the water rivers flowed through the streets to go to the other side, we had to take a taxi.

The food was delicious. For Russian citizens, there is only one problem - it is impossible to buy alcohol in Peshawar, even foreigners, even at the bar of the five-star hotel. Muslim, caught with alcohol, receives a prison sentence up to 6 months.

... in the evening we were already preparing for the next stage of the journey - at 5 am we flew into the city of Chitral - in the mountains of Hindukush, and from there - in search of mysterious Kalash.

The first stop was made on the cemetery, in the city of Charsadd. According to local residents, this is the largest cemetery in Asia. It really was huge - stretched to the horizon himself, and to bury the dead here began before our era. The place is historically very important and even sacred. Here was the ancient capital of Gandhara state - Pushkalavati (on Sanskrit - "lotus flower").

Gandhara, famous for his outstanding works of art and philosophical works, is one of the most important places of Buddhism. From here Buddhism spread to many countries, including China. In 327 BC e. Alexander Macedonsky after a 30-day siege personally accepted the delivery of the city. Today, nothing is already reminded of time, except that the lotuses are still growing in its surroundings.

We had to go further. Malakand passed ahead. Through it, the road goes to the valley of the Swat River, and further - to the northern regions of Pakistan. The world famous Malakand received at the end of the XIX century, when the British, in order to have a free passage to the chitral, at that time he had already been controlled by the territory, the pass occupied. At the exit of it, it is still located one of the numerous, though former, English forts, which is the name of Winston Churchill. Being 22-year-old junior lieutenantChurchill served here in 1897, when Fort was attacked by Pashtun tribes. His articles sent to Dail Telegraph (5 pounds per column, which was very many) and praising the Valiant British Army, brought the future prime minister first fame and faith in herself. Then, on the basis of these articles, Sir Winston Churchill wrote his first book "History of the Malakand Field Army." War was terrible. Local tribes declared the British of the Sacred War - Jihad. Despite the brave tone of newsprints, in letters to grandmother, the Duchess Malborough, Churchill wrote quite differently: "I ask myself a question - whether the British have at least the slightest idea of \u200b\u200bwhat war we have here ... Forgotten the word" mercy "is forgotten. The rebels are trying wounded, urged the corpses of the dead soldiers. Our troops also do not spare anyone who falls into their hands. " During this war, British troops used cruel weapons - discontinuous bullets DUM-DUM, which were subsequently banned by the Hague Convention of 1899.

Pretty twisted on the pass (as a consolation, representing how you feel here about 100 years ago, pushing the gun and waiting for a shot of an ambush), we drove into the valley of the Swat river, the place is again extremely important and not so well-studied. According to one of the versions, the first arias came here in the II millennium BC. e. The Swat River (on Sanskrit - "Garden") is mentioned in the Rigveda, the collection of religious hymns of the ancient Indians. This valley is oversaturated with history - here Alexander Macedonsky, who spent 4 battles here, and Buddhism's flourishing (from the II century BC. E. According to IX N. E., when there were 1,400 Buddhist monasteries in these places), and the struggle of the Great Mughal, And a lot later - both the British with local tribes.

And in order to imagine those distant times, not even a special imagination. To help this may well be a local way of repairing roads, which over the past century, it seems, did not change too much. Throughout the path of the group of local residents slowly and really sorrow with Kyloma asphalt and also slowly throw it on the roadside of the road. All this is done manually, and it can be seen that it started yesterday and will not end tomorrow - if only because for the authorities it is one of the ways to support the poorest segments of the population. In profit - everything, except for those who travel on the roads - one of two bands is almost constantly in the process of repair. And this creates noisy confusion, especially when huge trucks and people stuffed buses rushed into a narrow passage. And here is the first one - that's right.

In a word, when we once had already watched the scene, when two people dig one shovel - one holds, and the other pulls her for the rope, a cramole thought came to the head - and that if you pay the locals for the fact that they do not repair the road ...

Road problem here is old as the world. Many tried to cope with her. The legendary ruler of the Empire of the Great Mogolov Akbar sent bricklayers to get to the mountainous areas. The British demanded from local princes to keep the main roads in order to be able to quickly move their troops. What they were answered by sabotage, according to their reasons - in the event of a conflict, while the conciliatory army will be raised in Buaerakov, you can have time to prepare for defense or go to the mountains ...

In the meantime, we drove into another area. In the valley of the River of the Painjor, the city of Timargarh, we got into the onion kingdom. Onion was everywhere. He was sorted right along the road, put in bags that were browned on each other, adding new onion mountain chains to Hindukush. Bags with onions hung from cars, and why not fell, it was completely incomprehensible. It is very cheap onions here - about $ 2 per bag of 50-60 kilograms. The second culture in the region was tobacco, but they were just no time to ask.

Having traveled to the mountains of Luke and passed the city of Dir, we approached the most difficult area of \u200b\u200bthe path - Lavarai pass (LOWARI PASS). By this time, the only thing that could save tired travelers is lunch. During our whole journey we ate monotonous (rice, chicken), although very tasty food. Well remembered bread, which in every area do in its own way. Probably, in the best Parisian restaurant, it is fed canceled, but in order to remember the taste and aroma of hot cakes forever, you need to drive 6 hours in the car in the Pakistani road, and then go to the neighbor where the cute and clean hotel came from ...

Here we were forced to transfer from the car in the jeep - otherwise the lavaray would not go. This first was very high - 3,122 meters, and in the life of the inhabitants of the chitral (the purpose of our trip) the role he plays the most important. This is the only reliable link with the outside world, while almost 8 months a year (from October - November to May) the pass is closed.

Our car slowly crawled along the cliff. The sharpness of the feelings gave tremendous trucks, who obviously felt on the road with legitimate owners and themselves were extremely remarkable. Each driver seeks to paint your truck as much as possible. Some of them had even carved wooden doors. Paint the truck, as they say, also with practical goal - So he is noticeable in the dark. Drivers spend on the road to many days, but this profession is considered in these places and honorary, and profitable.

The "Truck" reigned "Truck" revival - for 4 months it is necessary to have time to get products and goods for the semi-million population of the chitrala. Large old (years to 20-30) cars in a hurry, overtaking each other in dust clubs. In our eyes, one of the trucks collapsed on the road. In all directions, some kind of rhocked, which turned out to be rusty, extruded metal banks and canters, apparently intended for mirroring on a large land.

Further on the way, we drove the entrance to an unfinished tunnel leading to chitral. This tunnel is the most important dream of chitrators. Thanks to him, they would have the opportunity to travel from the chitral all year round. Now the life of the chitrals is not easy. Although in the winter season there exists aerial service With Peshawar, in fact, aircraft may not fly months, and in this case the population is cut off from many of the benefits of civilization, the main thing from which are medicine. Thus, the Lavarai passage for chitrarats is literally the road of life. The long-awaited tunnel began to build another 30 years ago, but did not have time to complete, and the political and economic events of the last decades do not allow continuing. True, there was some chance now - on the way we met two Austrian engineers who studied the state of the tunnel. So it is possible that work on its construction will be resumed.

Finally, the Lavarai Passage remained behind. Music (like all the male population of Pakistan) policeman disliked us with his hand and began to train our passports (it was nice, especially if you consider that the overwhelming majority of the local population illiterately). I once again noticed that everyone who met us belonged to us with a welcome and openness.

Some two hours, and we drove into chitral. At the entrance to the city, we met several former English, and now Pakistani forts. On one of them, the large letters were written "We want to die more than you want to live" - \u200b\u200bphrase, resembling the times of the first steps of Islam on the ground.

As you know, in Pakistan, the most prestigious business is considered to be the service in the army, the same of the most respected units of this army are chitral intelligence officers. A day before our arrival in Chitral, President Pakistan congratulates the intelligence officers with their holiday. The chitrathes are famous because they are among the world's best mountain shooters. To do this, they train in any weather, and also are continuously engaged in sports (the main and sacred sport for them polo is a game of the ball with riding sticks). Chitral intelligence officers reacted to us with some suspicion and at our attempts to enter them into the conversation said that they had no right to respond to foreigners. Deciding that this is the authentic professionalism of the scouts, we retreated at a pre-busy position, to the hotel.

The next day we went to study the chitral. The city stands on the shore of a picturesque and very turbulent river. The water in it is gray, and when the river lights the sun, it seems that it is not water, and the liquid stones rushing somewhere from the high mountains of Hindukusch. Mountains, by the way, really high, the locals said that six-tailed names are not even names - names have only those mountains that are above 7,000 meters. In addition, there are five eighties in Pakistan (including the second largest mountain in the world K-2).

The city is located ancient fort, owned by the Chitral King. To this day, they own their descendants as private property. The current hosts tolerate the idea of \u200b\u200bthe reconstruction of the fort and turning it into the museum, but before it is still far away. There is a magnificent antique mosque here. The main sports facility of the city is a polo stadium, and football competitions are also conducted. The climate in chitral is radically different from Peshavarsky. In the mountains, it is incomparably easier, and the air, despite the more than 30-degree heat, cool. The chitraratians told us about their difficult life in winter: about huge queues on airplanes (sometimes there are up to 1,000 people waiting for flights), about the fact that the drugs find it is not easy for the fact that only three years ago there was no normal connection in the city. By the way, in the mountains there is another pass, through Afghanistan, but now it is closed for obvious reasons.

The chitrators are proud of their history - in the past, the chitral was one of the most important milestones on the Great Silk Road. Another important event in history was the confrontation of Russians with the British in the XIX century. At that time, the sympathy of the local population was divided - some were for Russians, others for the British. The British scared local residents with Russian soldiers and actively built forts, and after the formation of the Turkestan region in the 1880s, the roads were blocked. The border of the Russian Empire took place very close to Tajikistan from here only a few tens of kilometers.

…Our the main objective - Kalash village - was very close, in two hours away. And we moved towards the mysterious descendants of the warriors Alexander Macedonsky. I had to go very narrow gorges. Mount Hindukusch was closed, as if not wanting to let us in the Kalash valleys. In the winter, to drive along these roads is really a problem, and 20 years ago the road was not at all. You could only get to the villages on foot. Electricity Kalasham spent only 7 years ago, and it is not always, especially frequent interruptions in the winter. Finally, they reached the largest village of Kalash Bumborote, besides her there are two more big villages Rumba and Brown - about 3,000 people live in them.

Kalashi is not a Muslim, they have their own religion about which we will also tell, so Kalash girls do not hide their faces, and this circumstance attracts many tourists from Pakistan here. In addition, girls since childhood must wear beautiful embroidered dresses and very picturesque national decorations. The first, with whom we had the opportunity to meet, was thirteen-year-old Zaina. She is studying in the 8th grade of the local school and sometimes work as a guide. Zaina - a friendly girl, although even thoughtful, from her we learned a lot of interesting things.

First, it turned out that the boombed is not one village, but a lot of different with unlike names, and Brun, and Batikik, the same in which we were called the Caracal. The boombed is the name of the valley, where the purest river is flowing. Secondly, the Zane never heard about Russia in life. How so, we were upset: "Moscow! Petersburg! Russia! ", In response to this, Zaina only smiles uncertainly. At first we tried to convince our Jamil Guide, that he incorrectly translates. To which he was offended, he says in 29 languages \u200b\u200bof Pakistan (not counting Japanese and English) and that there may be no mistakes - the word "Russia" he said at five local adverbs. Then we had to accept, although we firmly decided to get to the origins of this ignorance: we saw that the majority of men go with the radio, the main source of knowledge for most Pakistanis. Zane explained to us that the news is listening to men, the girls are only music. This explanation was arranged, but we still wonderedly asked what they were taught at the local school. It turned out that the school was built by the Greeks.

While the whole world doubts the Greek origin of Kalash, the Greeks themselves actively help them. We then saw a school - a gift from the Greek people, and the hospital. Therefore, it did not surprise us when to the question of which countries she knows, the rider firmly replied: "Greece!"

We went to visit her, where we were hospitably met her father, mother and grandmother. They together began to convince us that Kalashi lead their origin from the warriors of Alexander the Great Army. This old story is transferred from the mouth of the mouth for many years - there are no written sources from Kalash.

The legend says that two warrior and two girls who are broken from the Greek army came to these places. Men were injured and could not move. They placed the beginning of the Kalash people.

Kalashi lived a lot of centuries isolated. We asked pro recent history With violent appeal to Islam - you can find articles on this topic. The young answered confident that they did not see anything like that, the elderly answers were more evasive, but they also assured that some tough measures would not remember. The transition to Islam occurs when the Kalash girl marries Muslim, which happens infrequently. And although we have noticed the inscriptions to Muslims for the Muslims of the Entrance to the Kalashi, purely everyday relations between the two peoples seemed to us more than tolerant.

A more than a father of the Cosnan showed how the sport is played by Kalash. For us, it looks like a variety of laptians, golf and baseball at the same time. Play it in winter, two compete. The key is hit on the ball, then both of this ball are looking for. Who found first and ran back - he won. The account goes up to 12 points. It cannot be said that we very well figured out the intricacies of his rules, but they realized that the main thing in this game is a sense of the holiday. Residents of one village come to visit another - to play, and then the receiving party prepares treats at all.

And we learned that within a month, just at this time, there is an annual holiday of Rat Nat, that is, the night dance, which the inhabitants of other Kalash villages come, as well as tourists from Pakistan, and that today we can see him too. With poorly hidden joy, we assured that we will come.

Grandmother of Care with pride demonstrated to us the decorations that she does. An important detail of the female toilet is beads. By how the woman is dressed, you can find out how many years she is married. For age, for example, indicates the number of beard threads. Women and marry Kalashi in love. The girl herself chooses the future husband. It usually occurs in the spring, during dances. If both agree, the young man must kidnap - such is the tradition. After 2-3 days in the groom's house, the father of the bride comes, and immediately after that the celebration of the wedding begins. No less original in the Kalash and the divorce procedure - a woman can escape with another man, but at the same time he must give her ex-husband to her dowry, and in double size. And - no offense.

A distinctive feature of Kalash - a large number of holidays. In the spring, in May, their main holiday Joshi - everyone is dancing, get acquainted with each other. Joshi is a holiday in the interval between the hard work - the grain is already sown, and the men have not left the mountains to the pastures. In the summer, the participation is celebrated - it is necessary to hide the gods in late August to get a good harvest. In winter, in December, the main holiday of Chomus - animals solemnly bring sacrificing and men go to the sacred mountain. In general, holidays and family events so much that during the week I must have something happening.

Kalaksha has sacred places for dancing - Jeshfort. Those that we have seen are decorated in the Greek style - columns and painting. There are main events in the life of Kalash - commemoration and sacred. Purches turn into a noisy holiday, accompanied by pearfish and dancing, which continues for several days and where hundreds of people come from all villages.

There are special premises - "Basali" - for feminine and "unclean", that is, women during menstruation. All other strictly setting is prohibited even to touch the door or wall of this room. Eating there is transmitted in special bowls. The fever falls there 5 days before the birth of a child, and comes out after 10. "Basali" reflect one of the main features of the Calashtsev worldview - the concept of purity. Water, goats, wine, grain and sacred plants - "Chists", while women, Muslims and chicken are "unclean." Women, however, constantly change their status, and in the "Bashali" fall at the time of the highest "uncleanness" (in this case we are talking Not about hygiene).

On the holiday of Rat Nat we managed to get only in the evening of the next day. On the eve I went to search for dancing, but began to rain rain, which was not very good for the holiday. In addition, our new buddy Ceph drowned in Ariak jeep, or rather, his part. And since in the dark, we could not pull the car, I had to wait for the next day. At that moment it became clear that it was time to drop the local gods, and at the same time make friends with the local population, so we asked Kalashi to prepare the main festive dish - goat. The feast passed violently, because Kalashi, not being Muslims, drive a moonshine from apricots, strong drink even for our standards.

But on the holiday of dances, we still got. He took place in the pitch darkness, occasionally illuminated by the outbreaks of our cameras. Under the blows of the girl's drums sang a strange, rhythmic song and spilled 3-6 people, putting hands on the shoulders to each other. When music is a little poke old man With a long stick in his hands, I was started to tell something with a measured, guy voice. It was a teacher - he told the audience and the participants of the holiday legend from the life of Kalash.

RAT NAT lasts all night before dawn. Among the audience, in addition to the Kalashov themselves, Pakistanis were sat from the most different areas Countries and Peshavarovans, and residents of Islamabad. We all were disturbingly watched with black and red shadows twisted under the sounds of the drums. At first only girls danced, but closer to the morning you joined the young men - there are no prohibitions here.

After all that we saw, we decided that it would be good to summarize our knowledge about Kalashi life, and turned to the elder. He told us about the difficulties that had accompanied the Kalash for only 20 years ago, when they were in complete isolation. She told that Kalashi eat and still very simple: three times a day - bread, vegetable oil and cheese, meat - on holidays.

About the love of Kalashov Elder told us on his own example. In his life, he married three times. The first time he fell in love, but the girl was very beautiful and ran away with another. The second woman was very nice, but they swore all the time, and he left. With the third wife, they lived for a long time, she gave birth to his son and daughter, but she died. He gave all his wives along the apple - they had a huge value, since earlier one apple was worth the whole goat.

On our question about religion Elder answered like this: "God alone. I believe that my spirit will come to God after death, but I don't know, there is paradise or not. " Here he thought. We also tried to imagine the Kalashi paradise, because from the bunnies heard that heaven is the place where the rivers flow from milk, every man will receive beautiful girl, and the girl is a man. It seemed the impression that Kalashi had his own paradise ...

From research scientists, it is known that there are really a lot of gods from Kalash, and various gods and goddesses are revered in different villages. In addition to the gods there are also many spirits. Recently, questions of extraneous Kalashi often answer that they believe in one God, apparently, then that the difference between their religion from Islam is not too glanced.

Shamans played a big role in the life of Kalash. The most famous of them - Nang Dhar - could pass through the rocks and instantly appear in other valleys. He lived more than 500 years and had a significant impact on the customs and beliefs of this nation. "But now the shamans disappeared," the elder told us sadly. Let's hope that he simply did not want to disclose all the secrets to us.

He said to farewell: "How did I come from, I don't know. How many years old, I also do not know. I just discovered my eyes in this valley. "

The next day we went to the neighboring Valley, Rumba. Rumba is less than the boombed, although this Kalashi conglomerate also consists of a variety of small villages. Upon arrival we found that there is another difference. Residents of this village belonged to us with much less hospitality than the inhabitants of the Bumboro. We were not allowed to enter homes, women hid their faces from the camera. And there were several reasons for this.

It turned out that it was in this village who lives the most famous representative of Kalash Lakshan Bibi. She made an amazing career for his people - became the pilot of the aircraft and, using its popularity, created the Foundation for the support of the Kalash people - to help local residents and to promote their rare cultures around the world. The cases went pretty successfully, and, as it often happens, some rumburges began to suspect Lakshan Bibi in the assignment of funds allocated by foreigners for their needs. Perhaps the inhabitants of Rumbura rejuvenated the rich house Lakshan Bibi, which we saw on the entrance to the village, - it, of course, is very different from the rest of the buildings.

Rumbunds are generally very reluctant to communicate with foreigners. But the latter are experiencing increasing interest. We met in the village of two Japanese. I must say that representatives of the country ascending sun Very actively participate in a variety of projects and in Pakistan as a whole, and in the Kalash valley in particular. In the village of Rumbur, for example, they develop projects to create additional sources of energy. It is interesting, this village is also the fact that a Japanese lives in it, married to the local resident, name is Her Akiko Wada. Akiko has been studying the life of Kalash from the inside for many years and recently published a book about them and their customs.

In general, the cooling of Rumbunds to foreigners, which happened this year, reflects numerous contradictions in the life of all Kalash. Now in the boombed, for example, there is an active construction of new hotels. On the one hand, the influx of any means could change the difficult-to-wear ride for the better. On the other hand, tourists, as a rule, "blur" local culture, and Kalashi cannot not see what they themselves begin to conflict among themselves. Probably not very nice to be the object of research. Tourists are trying to photograph Kalash in the most unexpected places and at the most inappropriate time.

By the way, in one of the scientists of books "Fatigue from photographs" is called the reason for the other transition of Kalash girls in Islam. Add to this Islamic environment and difficulties experienced by Pakistan himself, and then it becomes clear that life in the valley does not become easier. Nevertheless, not everything is so bad. Somewhere from October to April of Kalashi in the valley remain alone - the road falls asleep with snow, airplanes, as we already know, fly from the case to occasion - and they continue to live granted by themselves.

Kalashi store a lot of riddles - their origin is completely and unclear. Some researchers tend to the fact that in the valleys next to the chitral, they appeared, fled from Afghanistan from the policy of violent Islamization and the seizure of land conducted by the Afghan Emir Abduurrahman-Khan in 1895-1896. Politics this khan started after whole area On Gindukushe, "Kafiristan" ("the country of incorrect"), moved to him after the British border (the notorious "Line Durand") between the then India and Afghanistan. The region was renamed "Nuristan" ("Country of Light"), and the tribes tried to preserve their customs were fled under the English Protectorate.

Other scientists believe that Kalashi themselves were invaders and occupied this area somewhere in the depths of centuries. Among the Kalash is a similar version - they believe that they came from a distant country, but where this country was located, it is unlikely to be able to install now. Lee Kalashi descendants of the soldiers of the Army Alexander Macedonsky, it is also unknown. It is indisputable only that they are clearly different from the people around them. Moreover, in a newly conducted study, the joint efforts of the Vavilov General Genetics Institute, the University in Southern California and Standford University - on the collection and processing of a huge amount of information on the genetic relations of the world of the planet Kalasham are devoted to a separate paragraph, which says their genes are really unique and belong to the European group.

And after a meeting with Kalash, it became no longer important, they have a relationship to Alexander Great or not. Apparently, because for some moment we ourselves became Kalash - among huge mountains, stormy rivers, with their dances in the night, with a sacred focus and sacrifices of the rock. We understood how difficult it was not easy to preserve their beliefs and traditions to a small, lost among the mountains of the people, constantly experiencing an increasing impact of the outside world.

We asked for goodbye from the elder about the meaning and features of Kalash national clothes, for which Muslims called them "black kafirs", that is, "black incorrect." He began to patiently and explain in detail, but then he thought for a second and said the following: "You ask what our female worn is worn? Kalashi alive, while women wear these dresses. "

We, leaving the land of Kalash, headed on - to the province of Punjab, and then on the border between Pakistan and India.

Kalashi - Mysterious people from the past

Few people know that direct descendants of the ancient Greeks live in Pakistan. The people whose faces seemed to be descended from ancient VAZ, calls themselves by Kalashi (Kal'as'a) and confess his own, distinguished from the Muslim environment, religion.

Kalash girl
(Photos from Wikipedia website)

The fact that this religion is difficult to say in detail. Kalashi themselves are evading questions about their religion, which is most likely due to the concerns of the religious genocide, to which this people were subjected to Muslims not so long ago (according to some information, Kalashi, which constitutes only 3,000 people today, at the end of the 19th century There were no less than 200 thousand people numbers). They often say to visitors that they believe in a single God-Creator, who is called deso (in the ancient Greeks Deos), although the number of gods they worship much more. Find out in detail what Pantheon Kalash failed. According to one information, among their gods can be found familiar from Childhood Apollo, Aphrodite and Zeus, the other sources say that these opinions are unfounded.

Small video presentation about Kalash

In history about Kalash, it is amazing not only that in muslim world They managed to preserve their religion, but also the fact that they are not at all like the people around them, but are similar to Western Europeans, among them there are many people with blond hair and blue and greens. All who visited Kalash village, celebrate the extreme beauty of Kalash women.

Old Man Kalash

It is appropriate to talk here about the people and how it was in Pakistan, in the hard-to-reach district of Hindukusch, just a few kilometers from the borders with Afghanistan and Tajikistan, near Pakistani from the district center Chitral.

Documentary film about Kalash - Part 1 and part 2

According to the most common version, Kalashi - the descendants of the warriors of Alexander Macedonsky. On the way to India, he left a barrier detachment in the rear, which, as a result, did not wait for her owner, and they remained living in these places. If Kalashi and have their roots in the conquest campaigns of Alexander the Great, then the legend looks more believable, according to which Alexander specially selected 400 of the most healthy Greek men and women and settled them in these hard-to-reach places in order to create a colony in this territory.

Kalash girl with chicken in his hands

According to another version, Kalashi - the descendants of the people who have seen in the mountains of Tibet in the process of a large resettlement of peoples during the invasion of the Aryans to Industan. There are no uniform opinions on their origin about their origin, but in conversations about this issue with alien, they more often prefer the version of Macedonian origin.

Kalash girl
(Photos from Silkroadchina)

A more accurate explanation of the origin of this nation could give a detailed study of the Kalash language, unfortunately, still poorly studied. It is believed that he belongs to the Darque language group, but on the basis of which this attribution was made not entirely clear, because More than half of the words from the vocabulary of Kalash language has no analogues in the languages \u200b\u200bof the Darque Group and the languages \u200b\u200bof the surrounding peoples. There are publications in which it is expressly said that Kalashi speak an ancient Greek language, but it is unknown. The fact is that the only one who helps today the Kalasham survive in extreme high mountain conditions - modern GreeksFor the money of which the school was built, the hospital, kindergarten, and several wells were broken.

The study of Kalash genes did not reveal anything concrete. Everything is very incomprehensible and Zybko - they say that Greek influence can be from 20 to 40%. (Why was it possible to conduct research, if similarity with the ancient Greeks can be seen and so?)

Busy Kalashi agriculture. Families are taken equality of floors. Wolne's female get away from her husband, but at the same time, her previous husband should receive from a new redemption in double size. From the oppression of women, there is only insulation of women in a separate house during menstruation and childbirth. It is believed that at this time the woman is unclean, and it is necessary to isolate it, it is forbidden to communicate with it, and they are sent to them through a special window in this house. The husband is also free to get away from the unloved wife at any time.

Another interesting video presentation about Kalash

About the location is worth something else. Kalash's people live in several villages scattered in three mountain plateau in the area, which Pakistanis is called Kafiristan - the country is incorrect (about this in detail in an interesting article in the MN). In this country, there are still few no less exotic peoples in this country, by the way.

Cemetery (photos from Indostan.ru)

Religious cults of Kalashy are sent to special places. The basis of the cult - sacrifices of animals.

Kalashi Kalashi their dead at the cemetery, while the coffins do not close.

The most impressive, according to all those who visited Kalash village, are hypnotizing viewers dancing of Kalash women.

Dancing

Like many small nations today, this unique people are on the verge of extinction. Modern civilization, bringing to the highland villages of Kalash temptation modern Mira, gradually flushes young people from their villages.

According to Kalash referee, the world will exist until Kalash women make their dances. Who knows, perhaps these little girls (see below) the latter, who in 30 years will be able to dance them.

Kalash kids dance

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Where are Kalashi live on the map. RA - Chronology - White people of different nations

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History and ethnonym

Region region

Racial type and genetics

Traditional farm and public device

Religion

Religious rites

Threat disappearance

Religion and Culture Kalash

Dancing