Subculture style parameters. Characteristics of individual subcultures

Modern urbanized society, mainly multicultural, includes a large number of subcultures defined in sociology (also in anthropology and cultural studies) as the groups and beliefs of which differ from the interests of a common culture.

Subcultures are a set of cultures of minors of minors, various styles, interests, behavior demonstrating the rejection of the identity of each group, largely depends on the social class, gender, intelligence, generally accepted traditions of morality, the national affiliation of its members, is characterized by preference to a specific, style of clothing and hairstyles , collectors in some places, the use of jargon, is what forms symbolism and values. But it should be noted that today each group is not characterized by strict identity, it may vary, in other words, persons freely pass from one group to another, various elements from different subcultures are mixed, unlike classical individual categories.

Youth subculture can be defined as a lifestyle and method of its expression developed in groups. The main topic in its sociology is the relationship between the social class and everyday experience. Thus, in the work of the French sociologist, it is said that the main factor influencing the nature of the group is the social environment - the genus of parents' classes and the level of education that they can give to their children.

There are many studies and theories regarding the development of these cultures, among them and the concept of falling morals. Some historians argue that by about 1955, youth subculture as such did not exist. Before World War II, young people who were called exclusively by children before entering their adult age, in any case, if we talk about Western society, there were very little freedom and no influence.

The concept of "teenager" has its origins in America. One of the reasons for the emergence of youth groups is the increase in consumption culture. Throughout the 1950s, the growing number of young people began to influence fashion, music, television, movies. The youth subculture was finally formed in the mid-1950s in the UK, when Teddy-battles appeared, distinguished by special attention to their appearance (for a shift in the 1960s) and rockers (or tone AP Boys), who preferred motorcycles and rock and roll. Many companies have adapted to their tastes, developing marketing strategies, creating magazines, such as the English music journal "New Musical Express" (short-range NME), and the television channel - MTV appeared. Fashion stores, discos and other institutions focused on rich adolescents opened. Advertising promised a new, exciting imagination world for young people through the consumption of the proposed goods and services.

Nevertheless, some historians claim that the youth subculture could appear before, in the period between world wars, leading to the example of FLPPPER-style. It was a "new breed" of girls in the 1920s. They wore short skirts, Streylly briefly hair, listened to fashion jazz, overly painted her face, smoked and drank alcoholic beverages, drove cars, generally demonstrated disregard for what was considered to be the norms of acceptable behavior.

Today there is no one dominant group. Youth subcultures in modern Russia are more in the form of Western youth cultures (for example, emo, goths, hip-hockers), but are characterized by Russian specifics.

So, let me introduce:

1. "Vanillas"
New generation of Turgenev Rayshin. Fragile girls dreaming of love, romance, beauty for a cup of coffee. The main idea of \u200b\u200bsubculture is the propaganda of femininity in all its senses. It is believed that this movement originated in protest against the vulgarity and not femininity of modern girls.

There are two versions of the appearance of the name of the subculture: 1) the name went from the same film "Vanilla Sky"; 2) The name is explained by great love for vanilla-beige dresses.

The main attributes for which you can define a "vanilla girl": a camera, T-shirts with the inscription "I Love NY", knitted hats, uggs, bangs, falling on one eye, stylish magazines, cakes, sugar wool, trendy glasses.

2. "Mashed"
Representatives of this subculture are talked for an unhealthy lifestyle.

They are for "cigarettes, coffee, disheveled hair, anorexic hoodooth, bum-styled in clothes, scarves, mitts, stockings and tights, many different rings on your fingers, coconut cocktails, huge sunglasses, huge heels, converses, flip flops, shoes without Heel, Uggs or Ballet, Leather Jackets and Koshuhi, Short haircuts and non-long hairstyles, black, red, blue, cherry and other bright and causing varnishes on short nails, defiantly red lipstick, alcohol, concerts, parties, free relationships, Rock and Roll, Glam Rock, Punk, 60s, 70s Top 80s. "

This movement came to us from the UK and consists in copying the lifestyle of famous stars from show business, such as Kate Moss or Jim Morrison.

3. Diggers and stalkers
Diggerti (from the English Digger - digger) - once a slang definition of hobbies, the essence of which is the study of artificial underground structures in cognitive or entertainment purposes.

Diggerti people call diggers. Diggers are engaged in the study of underground structures built by a person with the use of building materials and technologies, such as drainage systems, sewer collectors, underground rivers. As well as abandoned underground military objects. Very often, Diggertie is associated with a different kind of hazards, therefore it is considered hobbies, mostly the male part of the youth, but the girls are also not rare guests of the dungeons.

Stalkers - These are people who seek to visit forbidden or hard to reach places. They explore dangerous territories. The limit of dreams for many of them is the Chernobyl alienation zone.

4. Computer guy
The emergence of this subculture is associated with the development of computer technologies. Computer guys feel the taste of life predominantly in those moments when another technological novelty is provided in the field of their vision.

Among them are a lot of high-class IT specialists who are counted for the hacker community. Connoisseurs of the program code and features of the network, which can hack programs and oppose censorship on the Internet, in turn can be included in the union of anonymous.

5. Steampunk (Paropank)
Here it is welcomed by the imitation of the authentic era, as a rule, Victorian. Poor attributes Steampunk - Pocket Watches, Protective Goggles and Gears, which can be used anywhere. And then the will of the fantasy - masks and raincoats of leather, cylinders, raincoats, jackets and shirts with metal buttons. It is no coincidence that the Steampank culture is called "do it yourself."

Steampanka culture in some kind of refuge for intellectuals, enthusiasts, those who are constantly self-improvement, people with a soldering iron. It is not enough just to dress as a gentleman of the 19th century, after all, the second part of this word is "punk", and this is a person who does not take into account what the world imposes to them, and not hanging labels. In other words, the representative of this subculture is punk with knowledge of etiquette.

These are romance, sincerely loving science, art, dreamers who reject the modern platforming society and its ideas, but also ironic, slightly persistent, with the image of the "insane professor". Like any subculture, they are fighting, challenge the rest, and their main difference is a thrust for knowledge. Steampinkers are interested in mechanics, sciences, they themselves create fantastic devices and different designs. There is a close relationship of man and car. The world of steam engines is attractive, if you figure it out, he will not let go - so he is interesting, and such a space for design ideas.

6. Japan: Tokyo Rocabilly
Some subcultures are sometimes experiencing a revival. That is what happened with Rocabilly, which still exist in distant Japan. In Tokyo, there is a park of Eyogi, where all local representatives of this genre are going and hang.

These Japanese are dressed unusually - they wear biker jugs, vertically boiled bangs, high hairstyles with roller. They listen to them, naturally, only rock and roll. And accompany these modern rebels that still live in the 50s, Lady-Grizers. They wear multicolored dresses and sunk jeans, as it was fashionable half a century ago. In its existence, representatives of this subculture prove - rock and roll is alive!

7. Mexico: Guacher
Among Mexicans there is an unusual fashion - wearing special boots with long narrow noses. Such shoes in many are associated with jesters and medieval. But in the city of Mateuala, there is its own subculture, Guacher.

Her adherents wear shoes with long narrow socks. And subculture appeared thanks to popular music here. She is a mixture of Damispan more motifs and African, with the brushes of Kumbia's bass. At first, people came to dancing in shoes with ordinary socks, but gradually the inhabitants began to compete with each other and try to surpass each other at least in the length of the sock. For this, the shoes did everything longer and longer while it finally did not lose common sense. It is said that now there are unicumes that wear shoes with a length of almost a half meters.

8. Japan: Gyar
Gyaru is a subculture of young women who seek to achieve a certain ideal of beauty. That's just this image, as in most other countries, is imposed on girls from outside, through the media. Those who relate to this subculture goes to the most real madness to achieve their ideal of beauty.

It is believed that Gyar should stick to a certain style in fashion, hairstyles and make-up. But some characteristics are also stored unchanged - it is very high heels, short skirts and big eyes. Interestingly, in this subculture there are our own, smaller directions. The most unusual flow in Gyar is Yamamba, the subspecies of Ganguro. The name of this small subculture is literally translated as "black face." These Japanese women are as thin as much as much as possible in their face cream cream, paint their hair in white, and then impose even large circles of white shadows around the eyes. The image is complemented by screaming neon bright clothes and extensive hair. But recently, the subculture of girls with dark skin is becoming less popular. Gyar is trying to possess light skin and make their eyes multicolored with contact lenses. And in general, more and more often exploited a more feminine image of a schoolgirl. As a result, regardless of the fashion that is present in Japan, Sumar subculture even for this unusual country is strange.

9. Japan: Decal
And again about Japan. Mustache the Japanese with might and main exploit the possibilities of their transport. But there is a separate group of machine fans, which easily overshadow all the exploits of other modifiers.

The name of the decorator is translated as trucks decorated with lighting. The Japanese turn entire trucks into artwork. And used for this dazzling neon lighting, which creates a special effect. So the pumped trucks appear on the light, which look like transformers from Las Vegas.

But they go through the high-speed Highway Japan. And the reason for the emergence of subculture was the cult series of the 1970s "Trucker". It is not known how the sprouts of the phenomenon were kept, but it quickly began to develop in the last decade.

10. Congo: Supreme
Sapiers are not experts in explosives, but by local scoops. Some even believe that these men are dressed almost better than everyone in the world. But the Congo is one of the poorest countries on Earth, torn by the same war and poverty. But it is here that on the streets you can meet stylish men in designer double-breasted costumes that wear excellent shoes, use silk scarves and smoke notable cigars.

Is it really so many oil magnates in the Congo? In fact, the saphers are not at all rich, these are ordinary people working by teachers, drivers, postal and sellers. And such a fanatical adherence of fashion is for them a kind of religion. And there are reasons why the most common representatives of the working class spend all their savings not to a new home or car, but on expensive clothes. Such behavior is due to the history itself. Mentioning about the appearance of fashionable men here is dating back by the XVIII century. Then the slaves were forced to wear an elegant uniform to enjoy the gaze of their owners. The slave trade was canceled, and the free Africans decided to create their own style in fashion.

According to another, the theory of saphers appear in the Congo only in peacetime, and this is a very unstable country in political signs. Therefore, the appearance on the streets of fashionablely dressed men suggests that in the country of business go to the mountain and there is now reigning the stability and peace.

11. Hals-Goths
Sport conquers peace. He got to ready. Hals-Gotika is a mixture of ghetto-gothic and cyberpunk: all the same won black color, but with an emphasis on a futuristic view of sports things and modern materials like neoprene, plus the idea of \u200b\u200ba healthy lifestyle. Waterproof fabrics and breathable grids are in the case. Higher honor for Hals-Gota - to have a bionic prosthesis.

Hals-Gothic came up with the musicians of the American R'n'B-group Magic Fades, they admit that at first it was a joke, but now everything is serious. The world of Hals-Gothic sterile, his inhabitants do not make unnecessary movements and do not allow themselves anything superfluous, and their efficiency is close to one hundred percent.

In conclusion, I would like to say that a selection of such wonderful subcultures appeared on the basis of information from Internet articles, therefore, it should not be too serious about the subcultures above. But, nevertheless, these are the realities exist in the modern world.

The article uses materials: http://radygaa.blog.ru/, http://www.subcult.ru/, http://soccer-game1.blogspot.ru/, http://www.molomo.ru/ , http://www.furfur.me/

Instruction

One of the oldest, but still popular subcultures - hippie. They preach freedom in all manifestations (from the internal freedom to free love), pacifism, strive for independence, creative implementation. Externally look brightly, jeans are carrying, free T-shirts, vests. And women and men wear long hair, bright baubles on their hands. They can leave home and travel almost without livelihood, in the summer they live in tent towns.

Looks like hippies and close to them in the philosophy of rastaman or rastafari. Modern rastamans, especially in Russia, live not on the principles that were initially promoted by Rastaman. They simply listen to the music of reggae, love Boba Marley, make dreadlocks, carry a red-yellow-green hat and negatively relate to the subordinate material values \u200b\u200bof Western culture.

Popular among young people, the culture of emo. The name of culture is formed from the word "emotional" and reflects the emotionality of adherents of this movement. Subculting adherents are called Emokids. They have a bright appearance: long oblique bangs, greatly elected eyes, piercing, black and pink clothes, black varnish, many bracelets and icons. They strive for self-expression, but often perceived as vulnerable, depressive, plaqueous teenagers. It is also believed that these guys are prone to suicidal behavior.

Young people who love life and at the same time constantly risk it because of the pleasure gained, are called extremes. This includes various directions of extreme sports: rollers, parkers or tracers, skateboarders, etc. Even graffiti, which risk being caught, can also be attributed to this group. The style of clothing is usually sporty, free, can resemble a rapper.

Philosophy is close to one rather old subculture - pankam. Their slogan is about the fact that there is no future, determined their position: it is impossible to correct anything, and therefore the cross can be put on life. Learn in the crowd Punk will not be much difficulty - Iroquais on a short head, torn and dirty clothing. Often they are going to parties with a huge number of alcohol, drugs and fights. Initially, the movement was born on the basis of love for punk music.

Pretty much in common with panks from ready. At first, this was developed because of the addiction to Gothic music, but then appeared and his own. They perceive themselves as opponents of miserably, multiroth and mass consciousness, and therefore choose black color in clothes, symbolism of death as a reminder of life, hiking with friends in the cemetery. Outwardly, Satanists are often confused with them, which are dangerous to society, as they support violence against people and sacrifice.

Another subculture is considered to be dangerous for society - Skinhada. Already according to their name, it can be understood that the shaved head is a feature. Protect the cult of a strong personality, the ideas of national socialism and anti-Semitism. Hate adherents of other "bright" subcultures: Emo, Hippie, Major, as well as people are not European type, beat them. Most often, at the head of such a youth grouping is a mature man with protashist glances.

Another similar group, but without ideology, as such are. Usually it is guys from the outskirts of the city, dealing with minor robbery, theft, hooliganism, etc. These are disadvantaged representatives that are used in the speech of slang words, vocabulary, imitate persons who have served punishment. Appearance is usually untidy: Sports suit, black leather, cap. In relation to people focused on Western life principles, is aggressive.

- This is the third international exercise event organized. In 2013, a three-day, and in 2015 - the International Jubilee Conference "Youth and Society: In Search of New Solidarities".

- What are the most vibrant youth subcultural practices and communities can be allocated in modern Russia?
- This conference is noteworthy that it focuses on new types of urban communities and formations, interactions and communications of young people both in Russian cities and global dimension. It is difficult to say which new cultural youth types appeared in modern Russia. We celebrate several key trends that seem to us most interesting in modern youth. First, some extinction of subcultural activities in their "classic" version. The point is not that subcultures disappeared. Rather, we are talking about the fact that some key and significant, core values, around which subcultural solidarity were formed, become more mobile and "soft". And these values \u200b\u200bcan be perceived by broader audiences, i.e. Subcultures lose their closure, which was inherent in classical understanding. In this case, within the subcultural scenes themselves, constant fragmentation occurs, the allocation of new and new subspecies, such more pointing formations, which, while maintaining the most significant value, is developing an additional special quality that separates them allocates and makes recognizable among other subcultures.

– What does the extinction of subcultural activities mean in their "classic" version?

- On the example of the gothic scene, we see that they (subculture is ready) actually disappear. We have done this conclusion, including, relying on the data collected during the survey of students who were recognized as a separate subculture only in St. Petersburg (the survey was conducted in St. Petersburg, Ulyanovsk, Kazan, Makhachkala). And then a very small percentage of young people familiar with those who are goths, and only units admitted that they enter this subculture. But the very idea of \u200b\u200bpromoting the cult of the dark forces or something incomprehensible, mysterious, the sweatless sense was perceived by the most detached smaller groups, small communities and these ideas continue to collect "followers", but mostly it goes to the musical scene.

- That is, subcultures cease to be so closed?
- On the example of classic subcultures, we see that they were formed, relying on 4-5 key ideas. For example, for Hippie, such ideas were unisex, a fundamental abandonment of violence, pacifism, anti-capitalistic values, a cult of movement and travel, light drugs, searching for another reality, refusal to compulsory following a successful career adopted in society, the cult of nature and everything natural, including close relations, rejection of militarism, war, etc. If, for example, talking about "styles" or "Teddy Boys" - this is still a cult of style and special communication, these are young people, which is a higher status due to a sufficiently outcast, special style that brings them (at least symbolithically) to more High class. If these are skinheads, the ideas of the worker, male fraternity, tough heterosexual masculinity, strength, aggression, protection of local values \u200b\u200bprevail here, the protection of local values \u200b\u200b(its territory), such a men's solidarity. If we talk about panks, it is a symbolic challenge to the society of consumption, a cry of gloss, disregard for money and wealth. And they develop the economy DIY, veganism, vegetarianism and so on. All these and other key "points", ideas they begin to be perceived by wider youth groups, are modified, refracted through local features, are implemented in a more diverse subcultural youth space, participation.

- It all concerned the first trend, and what else do you allocate?
- The second trend that I would like to note in the youth space today - this is the development of sports practices, which are different as a city functionality, i.e. reformat the city, in terms of convenience and applicability of a particular place or places for sports. And here we see the sport "Natural" and "Commercialized" - fitness. Under the first, we understand the types of sports practices as Parkour, Trading, Vorkut, where young people refuse any commercial forms (paid fitness, coach, etc.), and focus on natural. Here we also see other types of careers who are not related to finance or commercial success.

The third popular trend is an emphasis on a zij, which, by the way, intersects with the previous trend. And here it is worth saying about the real one, where practitioners are implemented through asceticism in consumption, which can manifest itself not only in the abandonment of alcohol, smoking, drugs, but also in a simple ideology of ascetic food (Vegan, vegetarians, etc.), as well as in Virtual Affairs, such as communities in VKontakte, Pages of certain people in Instagram, in which photographs appear, tips on conducting a healthy lifestyle and group data and pages are collected hundreds of thousands of subscribers.

Fourth I would like to allocate activism, which over the past five years has also become a trend in the youth environment. Young people and girls are included in formally organized structures or movements that can be financed, and may not be financed, for example, student organizations or organized NGOs. But increasingly we meet a variety of initiatives informally created, refusing to commercialization, existing solely independently. And here also shows a tendency to fashion be involved in some kind of civil activity and participate in some form in the management of the city.

All these trends characterize young people as a very heterogeneous social group, and this diversity helps to see and understand the new types of youth's inclusion in the city.

- How do you solve this task?
- If we talk about delebriamatization on the methodological level, at the level of research practices and technician, then we solve this problem using different methods. We are not only trying to remove the overall picture with the help of polling techniques, but also strive to understand the various meanings and interpretations of young people regarding certain political, cultural practices, pay attention to the features of the youth rhetoric in order to avoid some moral, estimated judgments that It can manifest itself in the wording of issues or conducting an interview. We are trying to fully and fully reproduce youth everyday life, we are listening to the youth itself and entering equal communication with it. This is exactly the understanding of young people as an active, reflective subject, and not as an object of political manipulation and management.

Well, finally, the actual rhetoric of academic letters is very important. Very important point - as we present research results: presentations, articles, books. We strive for the most included and frank glance, so as not to distort your own assessment what we heard on an interview or saw during observation. Thus, if we manage to show and find common features and trends, then it seems to us that the methodology is implemented successfully.

- Imagine Professor Hilary Pilkington as a researcher. Why did you find it important to invite it?
- Professor Hilary Pilkington Works in Manchester University, she is a sociologist. We work together for more than 20 years and a lot of joint projects, research has been implemented together. In the course of collaboration, the main strategy was developed, the concept of youth research. It is difficult to say whose contribution is more. It is rather similar to such a general joint project, during which we all studied each other. We consider it formally and informally academic head of the school of youth research. In addition, the key books were written with it -"Looking to the West" and book about skinheads"Russia's SkinHeads: Exploring and Rethinking Subcultural Lives" Many joint articles and common academic events. Hilary is very honest and well-deserved, a well-known sociologist with a prevailing reputation in Britain and Europe. At the same time she is a very effective leader. Under its leadership, the third international project is being implemented, in each of which more than 15 European countries participate. These are global and very ambitious projects. Obtaining such grants and such major projects speaks of its reputation.

The first MYPLACE project was devoted to the historical memory and the attitude of young people to history in countries who survived the war and the situation of totalitarian regime, the second (Horizont 2020) is a project on the inclusion of young people in society, new forms of youth participation and exceptions. The third project, we are just now starting together, it is devoted to the radicalization of youth activism, primarily associated with religion. She is a very strong researcher. By the way, the book she wrote "Loud and Proud: Passion and Politics in The English Defense League". The British Sociological Association recently recognized the best book of 2016.

She is not only a strong sociologist, but also a good friend of Cmii, so it is extremely important for us and honorable that it will open this conference.

- What is the purpose of the conference?
- The goal of our conference is to look at the diversity of youth cultural activity as space of learning, growing, experimentation, protest, creativity, communications.

To do this, we assume to involve academic scientists from different disciplines and countries to participate in the conference to discuss modern youth cultural contexts and the latest approaches to the study of young people.

- How to become a member of the conference?
- To participate in the conference, you must send an abstraction of no more than 350 words together with the accompanying letter, where your place of work and position, email address and telephone number must be indicated. Abstracts can be prepared in Russian or English and must be shipped until May 28, 2017 to the address [Email Protected] The results of the selection will be known on June 11, 2017. We are waiting for applications! February 18, 2010, 15:45

Hippie, Youth subculture arising in the United States in the 1960s. The flourishing of motion fell at the end of the 1960s - the beginning of the 1970s. Initially, hippies protested against the Puritan morals of some Protestant churches, and also promoted the desire to return to natural purity through love and pacifism. Grunge The stylistic direction in rock music (option "New Wave Grunge Metal") and a youth subculture that has become one of the most notable phenomena of alternative rock late 1980s - mid-1990s. Motherland Grunge became the city of Seattle (USA, Washington), the most vivid representatives - four Seattle team: Pearl Jam, Alice in Chains, Nirvana and Soundgarden. These groups are known as the Seattle Four. Grunge refers to heavy music along with Hevi-Metal and Hard-Rock. Emo Emo subculture can be classified as the last new style, although it looks very similar to Goth and Glam Rock. Inspired by long names, such as "day, my dog \u200b\u200bwent to the city", painful boys all over the world decided to wear their hair combed sides, cervical scarves, black eyeliner, and jeans, tightly tight legs.
Punk, The youth subculture, which emerged in the mid-1970s in the UK, USA, Canada and Australia, the characteristic features of which are critical attitudes towards society and politics. The name of the famous American artist Andy Warhol and the Velvet Underground-produced group Velvet Underground is closely connected with Punk Rock. Their soloist LU Reed is considered the father-founder of an alternative rock, the flow, which is closely connected with punk rock.
Chik This style is reborn every few years, and the last of which is still in full swing, Johnny Depp and Justin Timberlake - bright representatives, checkered sneakers and T-shirt refilled in pants. Rockers, Rockers appeared in the mid-60s and reached their heyday in the late 60s - early 70s, both in England and on the continent. Rockers are predominantly from families of unskilled workers, without education and often from incomplete and "problem" families. Rocker clothes - leather jacket, worn jeans, rough big shoes, long hair combed back, sometimes tattoos. Jacket, as a rule, decorated with icons and inscriptions. The main element of the rocker subculture is a motorcycle, also decorated with inscriptions, symbols and images. Motorcycle is a symbol of freedom, power and intimidation, the main source of obtaining strong sensations. At the same time, rockers are highly valued technical knowledge and driving skills. Gansta Gangsta Rap began its development in the late 80s. This direction originates at Hardcore Rap. Gangsta Rap style was distinguished by hard, noisy sound. In a lyrical attitude, it was the same sharp as the coarse unprecedented rappers about urban disorder. Sometimes texts were distinguished by accurate mapping of reality, and sometimes it was simply filled with exaggeration comics. This direction has become the most successful in commercial attitude in the history of the HIP-HOP development from the late 80s to the beginning of the 90s. In the course of its formation, Gangsta Rap caused significant differences, as some conservative organizations tried to prohibit the distribution of albums of these musicians. New romantic (Glam Rock), The musical movement that emerged in the UK began the early 1980s and (as part of a new wave) that had a noticeable effect on the development of the English pop and rock scene. "New Romance" arose as an alternative to the asceticism of punk culture and not only did not carry a social protest, but also (according to Virgin Encyclopedia of 80's Music) "Helling Glamor". Maslenok, The process of culture of the British Teddy Boy - can be characterized as follows: narrow jeans, dense T-T-shirts and combed hair back. Music machines, cocktail bar and travel in cars.
Dandy Flapper, Dandy Flapper in girls prevailed. Red lipstick, her hair sticks to her head with varnish and sequins, the dresses were on the agenda of girls, men have only a tweed suit with a kotelet.