Sightseeing tour - traveler page. Pyongyang

 Sightseeing tour - traveler page. Pyongyang
Sightseeing tour - traveler page. Pyongyang

Today we will make the first big excursion to Pyongyan, and begin with the Holy Saints - the Mausoleum of Comrade Kim Il Sen and Comrade Kim Jong Ira. The mausoleum is located in the Kymusan Palace, where Kim Il Sen, once worked, and who, after the death of the leader in 1994, was turned into a huge pantheon of memory. After the death of Kim Jong Ira in 2011, his body was also placed in the Kõmusan Palace.

A hike in Mausoleum is a sacred ceremony in the life of any North Korean worker. They are mainly there in organized groups - whole organizations, collective farms, military units, student classes. At the entrance to Pantheon, hundreds of groups with trepidation await their turn. Foreign tourists entry in Mausoleum permitted on Thursdays and Sundays - Guides also set up foreigners for a reverent solemn way and warn about the need to get dressed as much as possible. Our group, however, for the most part ignored this warning - well, we do not have anything else in the journey to jeans and shirts (I must say that the DPRK does not like jeans in the DPRK, considering it "American clothing"). But nothing - let it, naturally. But many other foreigners, whom we saw in Mausoleum (Australians, Western Europeans), playing a full, dressed very sage - lush mourning dresses, tuxedo with a butterfly ...

Inside the mausoleum and on all the approaches it is impossible to take pictures - so I will try to simply describe what is happening inside. First, tourists expect their turn in a small waiting pavilion for foreigners, then go to the common area where they are already mixed with North Korean groups. At the entrance to the Mausoleum itself, you need to pass phones and cameras, very careful inspection - you can only take a medicine from the heart, if in the front halls with leaders suddenly someone will be bad from awe. And then we are going on a horizontal escalator on a long-pre-pre-pre-aided corridor, the marble walls of which are hung with photographs of both leaders in all their greatness and heroism - interchange photos of different years, from the young revolutionary pore of the comrade Kim Il Sena and until the recent years of the reign of his son Comrade Kim Chen Ira. At one of the honorable places closer to the end of the corridor, I was noticed by Kim Jong Ira in Moscow at a meeting of the case, then a very very young Russian president, made in 2001, seems to year. This pompous long-premissible corridor with huge portraits, in which a 10 minutes drives an escalator, Will-Neil sets up for some solemn way. Even foreigners from another world sets up - what to say about the trembling locals, for whom Kim Il Saint and Kim Jong Il - Gods.

From the inside, the Khyshusian Palace is divided into two halves - one is dedicated to Comrach Kim Il Sayna, another - Comrade Kim Jong Iru. Huge marble halls in gold, silver and jewels, pompous corridors. Luxury and pompousness of all this is quite difficult to describe. The bodies of the leaders lie in two huge half-world marble halls, at the entrance to which you pass through another line of inspection, where you are driven through the jets of the air, in order to play in the main sacred halls from the world's last dealers. Directly to the bodies of leaders are suitable for four people plus guide - go around the circle and bow. You need to bow to the floor when you are in front of the leader, as well as on the left and right - you do not need to go behind the headboard. On Thursday and Sunday, foreign groups go to the simple Korean workers - it is interesting to observe the reaction of North Koreans on the bodies of the leaders. All in the most striking frontal outfits are peasants, workers, a lot of military in shape. Almost all women cry and wip their eyes with scarves, men are also often crying - especially striking tears of young slender rustic soldiers. Hysterlements occur with many in mourning halls ... People cry touchingly and sincerely - however, they are brought up in this from birth.

After the halls, where the bodies of the leaders are resting, the groups pass through other halls of the palace and get acquainted with awards - one hall is devoted to the award-winning Comrade Kim Il Senya, and the other - award-winning Comrade Kim Jong Ira. Also show personal things of the leaders, their cars, as well as the two famous railway cars, in which the world Kim Il Saint and Kim Jong Ir respectively. Separately, it is worth noting the hall of the tears - the most pompous hall, where the nation said goodbye to the leaders.

On the way back, we again went to 10 minutes on this long-pre-port corridor with portraits - it so happened that several foreign groups in a row were driving us, but to meet, on another escalator, to the leaders, already sobbing and nervously told the shawls, rowed some Koreans - collective farmers , Workers, Military ... A hundreds of persons who have rushed to the lowned meeting for the leaders rushed. It was a meeting of two worlds - we looked at them, and they are on us. I was very struck by these minutes on the escalator. I slightly violated the chronological order here, because the day before that we have already been thoroughly traveled through the regions of the DPRK and received a view about them - therefore I will give here what I wrote in the way notepad on getting out of the Mausoleum. "For them, these are gods. And this is the ideology of the country. At the same time in the country of poverty, denominations, a man nothing. Taking into account the fact that in the army serve almost all at least 5-7 years old, and soldiers in the DPRK manually perform the most difficult work, including almost 100% of national construction - it can be said that this is a slave-owned system, free labor. At the same time, ideology presents that "the army helps the country, and we need an even more rigid discipline in the army and in general in the country for moving towards the bright future" ... and the country is average at the level of the 1950s ... But what are the palaces of the leaders! That's how to zombie society! After all, they, not knowing the other, however, love them, they, if necessary, are ready to kill for Kim Il Sen and are ready to die themselves. Of course it is great - love your homeland, being a patriot of your country, can also be good or bad to treat one or another political figure. But the way all this happens here is beyond the understanding of a modern person! "

On the square in front of the Kõmusan Palace, you can photograph - it is especially interesting to photograph people.

1. Women in the front costumes go in mausoleum.

2. Sculptural composition at the left Flygel Palace.

4. Group photographing on the background of the mausoleum.

5. Some are photographed, others look forward to their turn.

6. I also took a photo for memory.

7. Pioneer won the leaders.

8. The peasants in the front-door clothes are waiting for their turn at the entrance to the mausoleum.

9. Military call for 5-7 years is subject to almost 100% of the male population of the DPRK. At the same time, the servicemen perform not only the military, but also civil works - everywhere build, plowing on the wilds in the fields, work in collective farms and state farms. Women serve one year and voluntarily - volunteers, naturally, a lot.

10. Parade facade of the Komsaan Palace.

11. Next stop - memorial heroes of the struggle for liberation from Japan. Heavy rain…

14. The graves of the fallen stand on the slope of the mountain in a chess order - that every resting here could see from the top of the Panorama Panorama of Panorama.

15. The central place of the memorial is occupied by the revolutionary Kim Chen Suc, the first wife Kim Il Sayna, mother Kim Jong Ira. Kim Jong Sook died in 1949 at the age of 31 at the second birth.

16. After visiting the Memorial, we will go to the suburb of Pyongyang, the village of Manbonoe, where Comrade Kim Il Sen was born and where his grandparents lived until the post-war years lived. This is one of the most sacred places in the DPRK.

19. A tragic story happened with this crumpled during smelting the pot - not aware of all his holiness, one of our tourists knocked on his finger. And our guide Kim did not have time to warn that it was categorically prohibited to touch anything here. One of the memorial employees noticed this and someone called. A minute later the phone rang already at our Kim - the guide was called somewhere on working out. For minutes, forty walked around the park, accompanied by the driver and the second guide, a young guy who did not speak Russian. When I was very disturbing for Kim, she finally appeared - upset and cryal. To the question that she will now be, she smiled sadly and said quietly - "What's the difference?" So it was a sorry for it at that moment ...

20. While our guide Kim was on working out, a little walked around the park surrounding Mangönde. On this mosaic panel depicted a young comrade Kim Il Saint, leaving his home and leaving the country to fight occupied Korea by Japanese militarists. And they accompany him in his native mangoland grandmother and grandfather.

21. The next item of the program is a monument to the Soviet soldiers who participated in the liberation of Korea from Japan at the very end of World War II.

23. The memorial of our soldiers begins a huge park, stretching along the hills along the river a few kilometers. In one of the cozy green corners, a rare monument of the antiquity was discovered - in Pyongyang a little historical monuments, because the city suffered a lot during the Korean War of 1950-1953.

24. From the hill opens a beautiful view of the river - what kind of natives are these wide avenues and panel buildings of high-rise buildings. But how amazing little cars!

25. The newest bridge over the Tadongan River is the last of the five bridges provided for by the post-war general plan of the development of Pyongyang. It was built in the 1990s.

26. Nearby from the guy bridge is the largest in the DPRK 150-thousandth Stadium of May 1, where the main sports competitions are held and the famous Holiday Arira is held.

27. A couple of hours ago, I left the Mausoleum slightly on the negative, which intensified after because of some pots of our unfortunate accompanying accompanying the gullhead in higher instances. But it is worth walking through the park, look at people - and the mood is changing. Children play a cozy recluxury ...

28. The middle-aged intellectual, who returned to the Sunday afternoon in the shadows, stones the works of Kim Il Senya ...

29. Nothing reminds? :)

30. Today is Sunday - and the city park is full of rest. The people play volleyball, just sitting on the grass ...

31. And the hotter was hotter than Sundays on an open dance floor - they broke out both local youth and more adult Korean workers. How the Zalihihwaki was distinguished their bizarre movements!

33. This guy is best dancing.

34. We also joined the dancers for 10 minutes - and we were happily accepted. This is what the alien guest looks like on a disco in North Korea! :)

35. Walking through the park, back to the center of Pyongyang. From the observation platform of the monument of the Juche idea (remember, which glows in the night and which I shot from the hotel window) offers wonderful views of Pyongyang. Let's enjoy the panorama! So, the socialist city as it is! :)

37. Much is already familiar - here, for example, the Central Library of the Comrade Kim Il Siena.

39. Vent bridge and stadium.

41. Incredible impressions are our Soviet landscapes. High houses, wide streets and prospectuses. But as few people on the streets. And almost no cars! As if thanks to the car time, we moved to 30-40 years ago!

42. The completion of a new supergotion for inturists and high-ranking guests.

43. Ostankinskaya Tower.

44. The most comfortable five-star Pyongyang Hotel is naturally for foreigners.

45. And this is our hotel "Yangacdo" - four stars. I look now - well, however, it reminds the height of the Moscow project institute, in which I work! :))))

46. \u200b\u200bSculptural compositions of workers have been established at the foot of the monument of Juche ideas.

48. On the 36th photos, you may notice an interesting monument. This is the monument of the Korea Labor Party. Dominant of the sculptural composition - sickle, hammer and brush. With a sickle and hammer, everything is more or less clear, and the brush in North Korea symbolizes the intelligentsia.

50. Inside the composition was installed panel, in the central part of which "progressive socialist world masses" are shown, which are fighting against the "bourgeois puppet government of South Korea" and drive the "torn-tailed struggle occupied southern territories" to socialism and inevitable association with the DPRK.

51. This is the South Korean masses.

52. This is the progressive intelligentsia of South Korea.

53. This is apparently the episode of the incessant armed struggle.

54. The veteran and young pioneer fenced gray.

55. Sickle, hammer and brush - collective farmers, working and intellectual.

56. In conclusion of today's post, I want to bring some other scattered photos of Pyongyang, made during the move around the city. Facades, episodes, artifacts. Let's start with Pyongyang Station. By the way, Moscow and Pyongyang still connects the railway communication (as I understand it, a few trailed cars to the Beijing train). But ride from Moscow to the DPRK on the railway Russian tourists can not - these cars are intended only for residents of North Korea working with us.

57. Typical urban panel - there are a lot of them in North Korea.

58. Czech tram - and ordinary people. In the DPRK, very good people are simple, sincere, good, friendly, welcoming, hospitable. Later I will be devoting a separate post to North Korea, who snatched on the streets.

59. Pioneer tie flipped after lessons fluttering on the May breeze.

60. Another Czech tram. However, trams here are all those native to our eyes. :)

61. "South-Western"? "Vernadsky avenue"? "Strogino?" Or all the same Pyongyang? :))))

62. But this is really a rare trolleybus!

63. Black "Volga" against the museum of the Domestic Liberation War. Our car industry in the DPRK is a lot - "Volga", military and civilian "UAZ", "Sevenki", "Maza", several years ago, the DPRK bought a large batch of Gazelle and Prior from Russia. But they, unlike the Soviet Auto industry, are unhappy.

64. Another photo of a "sleeping" area.

65. The previous photo shows an agitator machine. Here it is larger - such cars are constantly driving around the cities and the floors of North Korea, slogans, speeches and calls, or simply revolutionary music or marches sound from the morning before the evening. The campaign machines are designed to encourage the working people and inspire him to even more diligent work for the good of a bright future.

66. And again the quarters of the Socialist City.

67. Simple Soviet "MAZ" ...

68. ... and the tram from the fraternal Czechoslovakia.

69. Final photos - Triumphal Arch in honor of the victory over Japan.

70. And this stadium really reminded me of our Moscow Dynamo Stadium. The years in the forties, when he was still new with the needle.

North Korea leaves ambiguous, very mixed feelings. And they accompany you all the time you are here. I'll be back to walks in Pyongyan, and next time it will be talking about a trip to the north of the country, in Möhan Mountains, where we will see several ancient monasteries, we will visit the Museum of Gifts Comrade Kim Il Sayne, visit Renmun Cave with Stalactites, Stalagmititis and Military Group In one of the dungeons - as well as just look at the non -parable life of the DPRK outside the capital

On January 27, 1924, the coffin with Lenin's body was placed in the wooden mausoleum built during the days of the Red Square. The decision not to betray the body of the Earth is unprecedented, it is impossible: the earlier cases of embalming are known. But not in relation to the personalities of this scale. However, the example of the leader of the world proletariat was infectious. Over the next half a century, the bodies of many political figures mumfied.

1. Joseph Stalin

Lenin's successor passed away on March 5, 1953, four days later the coffin was transported from the house of alliances to the Red Square. At noon over the Kremlin, artillery salute thundered, the whole country was silent for five minutes. Stalin's body lay down to the mausoleum until 1961, until the XXII CPSU congress ruled that "Serious violations by the Stalin Leninsky Testaments, abuse of power, mass repressions against honest Soviet people and other actions during the cult of personality make it impossible to leaving the coffin with his body in Mausoleum IN AND. Lenin. " Day later, Stalin buried the Kremlin wall.

2. Mao Zedong

The tomb of the long-term leader of the People's Republic of China is one of the main attractions of Beijing. Mausoleum erected on Tiananmen Square in 1977. The area of \u200b\u200bthe construction is more than 57 thousand square meters. In addition to the hall for visitors, where a crystal coffin with a mummified corpse of Mao was put, a hall of revolutionary achievements is located in the mausoleium, and on the second floor - cinema hall. There show the documentary "Tosca", dedicated to the life of the idol.

3. Kim Il Saint and Kim Jong Il

After the founder of the North Korean state of Kim Il Saint in 1994 left his life, his son Kim Jong Il ordered to convert the leader's residence in Mausoleum. Officially, he is called the Kymusian Memorial Palace of the Sun. In 2011, the body of Kim Jong Ira was laid next to the Sarcophagus of the Eternal President of the DPRK. The mausoleum is forbidden to take pictures, talk loudly and appear in bright clothes.

4. Ho Chi Min

The first president of Northern Vietnam in the will asked to crem itself, put the dust in three ceramic urns and buried in different parts of the country. But his will was not executed. When the politician passed away in 1969, the Soviet specialists displaced his body. At first, Mumia was kept in a secret place to protect against American bombing during the Vietnamese War, and in the mausoleum in the Hanoi glass coffin moved six years after the death of Ho Chi Minh. A garden breaks around where about 250 types of flora from various Vietnam regions grows.

5. Georgy Dimitrov

The Secretary General of the Central Committee of the Bulgarian Communist Party, which was called "Bulgarian Lenin," died in 1949 in Barvikha near Moscow, where he came to treatment. The body was taken to Sofia, got concerned and placed in the mausoleum. There it broke up until 1990, when the communist regime fell. At the request of relatives (according to the official version), Dimitrov was reburied, and the crypt was demolished.
6. Eva Peron.

Eva was the wife of President Argentina Juan Pereon, her for an active civil position was considered a spiritual leader of the nation. The woman died at the age of 33 from cancer, and her disintended body was exposed to everyone's review. After the overthrow of Juan Peron in 1955, Mumia was transported to Milan and buried. Returning a presidential post, Peron sent the body of Eva to his homeland and placed in a family crypt.

We publish passages from the Book of Sergey Yana "Country Father's Dream" dedicated to the fate of the Koreans, who found themselves after the Second World War on Sakhalin. Only in the 90s, Korean families got the opportunity to go home the ancestors - to the South and North Korea, and divided families - to see and reunite.

MAUSOLEUM

Extraordinary item of our program, awards to our group for approximate behavior from the accompanying - visiting the Mausoleum of Comrade Kim Il Siena, the leader of the Korean revolution. For us, as the guide explained, it is a great honor and trust. I do not know if you can justify.

On the square size with a decent city quarter there is a whole complex of buildings, including former presidential palace. High beautiful gates are guarded by soldiers in the Parade Soviet form. Around - squares and fountains, and around the perimeter - a wide channel with water. She sharply dark, and the real tropical shower broke out - nothing can be seen in five steps. Despite the torrential rain, the queue of those who want to see the leader does not decrease.

Attendance by the people of revolutionary monuments, museums and cemeteries are simply amazing. The whole history of the country is reduced to the dark pre-revolutionary past and bright true: socialism, built under the wise leadership of the party. Monuments and monuments erected in honor of the revolution were elevated to the rank of national shrines. Everything, as we had, only taking into account the characteristics of the eastern obedience and submission to fate. We as guests were brought to the covered gallery and put in the top of the queue.

Following the group of students, we descend on the escalator somewhere down. On the counter escalator from the Mausoleum rises the military. In a small room, everyone is rebuilt into the column of two people, and a moving pavement is a horizontal escalator - lucky on a long, brightly lit tunnel. On the oncoming lane, separated from us with a wide parapet, workers and schoolchildren of high schools go. Some women in their eyes are tears. Through the turn another escalator. In the next corridor, we are passed one by one through the metal detector. Then, on a moving track, small brushes are washed to visitors of the sole. And in a small unit, outside the container, a jet of air, dust blew with us and missed through some radiation. Now climb up. Marble, Gold, Crystal. The glow is such that blind eyes. Finally, after half hour wanderings in the dungeon, stop in front of the stone with the gilding doors inside the former presidential palace, now Mausoleum. We are entering. In the center of the huge hall on the elevation is a transparent sarcophagus with the body of the leader. Four hours at the corners of the elevation are more similar to sculpture. Sounds, oddly enough, a familiar, slightly slow down melody of the song "Because of the island on Strazhen ...", decorated with elements of oriental music.

Groups of five people approach the sarcopagu. By the sign of the accompanying stop at the feet, we bow, go to the left, look, we bow again and go to the other side. Last bow. From the hall we go through other doors. Was there something else, except for sarcophagus, I do not remember. It is said that the Body of Comrade Kim Il Seine was embarrassed by Russian scientists. And here we are "ahead of the planet all." Indeed, Kim Il Saint in the sarcophagus looks "more lively" thereby standing around him.

In the adjacent hall in glass windows, hundreds of orders, medals and other awards obtained by the Grand Chief and the teacher for their long revolutionary life are more than one hundred countries. The signs of the differences and Order of Bulgaria, Cuba, Germany, Poland - all without exception of the countries of the socialist camp. Awards from Asia, Africa, America. You can study the political geography of the world. His merits in front of the people and the Government of the USSR are marked by three orders of Lenin, two orders of a working red banner and dozens of medals. Is our awards not recognition by us by the leader of the Korean Communists?

Then we were brought to kindergarten. Exhibition of paintings, an indicative lesson for knowledge of the biography of the leader, a small concert of young tanks. Together with them drove rounds and even took part in small competitions. For a long time I remember shining, gullible eyes and defenseless palms of children ...

The high-speed motorway, in which our bus runs lonely, has been built with all the modern requirements. Union in different levels, a separation strip with a reflective film on picket colors, overpass, tunnels, beautiful bridges. The speedometer arrow swinging at a hundred kilometers per hour. Yellow removed rice fields, gardens, multicolor hills and gray walls of monolithic rocks are peeling outside the window. Modern high-speed motorway on which there are no cars ...

In North Korea, the third year is crumbling. Last two years, rain continuously, and all crops ruined the flood. This year drought. Channels and rivers overgrown. During the summer, the rain passed only twice. Humanitarian assistance coming from China, Japan and Thailand allows you to not allow mass hunger in the country. We were warned in advance and apologized for a poor and unusual diet. Contrary to expectations, food was inserted, however, the quality of Rice left much to be desired. If us, tourists, fed such rice, can be represented than the population eats. However, we do not need to talk about collective farm cooperative, socialist difficulties. We yourself come from there.

In November 1953, our family was evicted from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk and sent to the collective farm. It was snowing. In addition to clothes, what was on us was allowed to bring with them two small nodes with blankets and dishes, nodules with rice and two small plywood suitcase. All that parents did not have time to distribute the neighbors, left in an empty house. When a small tractor came up with a cart, one for five families, we, together with the policeman, were already on the street. Things quickly threw things, then, having sunk people sitting on the nodes, lay on the cart themselves. So the long Odyssey of our family began. A blizzard raged on the pass, it became dark. Men pointing the road, two flew ahead of the tractor. I wrapped in all kinds of scarves, through a small crack with interest watched a shiny steel caterpillar and fell asleep. Woke up on wooden bars coated with straw layer.

As we did not die with the hunger in that winter, only God and my parents know. Mamines dresses and cuts, carefully preserved in the cherished suitcase since the war, the father exchanged from the officers from the military unit to several bags of potatoes and a salty humpback bags. Thai, nights, overcoming a distance of six kilometers, he moved products to himself and hid them under the floor. Almost all winter we ate ice cream potatoes, pearl porridge and salty fish. But before the spring still did not have enough.

At the end of December, in our collective farm on the sleigh brought a half decay of the families of special flepens from the mainland - Ukrainians and Russians. We were afraid of them and put constipation on the doors. A week later, the Russian neighbor unexpectedly came to us and asked the mother not to throw out potato cleaning. We thought that they brought the piglery and, surprised by their processes, everyone told the Father. Parents said long between themselves, and in the morning the Father took the neighbors of the Potatoes. Still crawled the Ukrainians. A few days later, a terrible bearded grandfather in huge boots brought us a loaf of black homemade bread. I do not remember that before this incident we ate bread. So together we survived. Closer to the spring, potatoes were not cleaned, cooked in uniform. Finally snowed. Dorticros appeared, fish, the road to the neighboring village. Life continued ...

Already at dusk, driving the city of Hensan, approach the hotel from a small suburban village with houses in a purely eastern architectural style. Our women, fairly exhausted by the lack of hot water in the hotel rooms of the capital, were very pleased with cozy warm rooms.

In the evening the guide invited everyone to the disco. Large hollow room with brightly lit bar. On the perimeter there are low tables with armchairs, on the podium music center. In the middle of the hall, the Accordion accompaniment is singing and dance, or rather, lead dance group of guys and girls.

Slightly heated with local beer, asked the bartender to include a music center. There were records of Russian songs, and even Lambad. After the Waltz, visitors sneeze began to leave the disco, and after Lambada in our version in the hall, except for us, there were only a few most resistant holidaymakers of young transits of production, awarded weekend tickets.

Mount Moansan

The sixth day in Korea began inspection of the exposure of gifts received by the great leader Kim Jong Ir and his father, the Grand Chief of Kim I Sray. On the shore of a small river, at the foot of the picturesque mountains, there are two huge buildings, separated by green lawns. Massive doors made of monolithic stone slabs are opened with a slightly pressing hand. Magnificent interior decoration, luxury crystal chandeliers. Owing on shoes Special covers made of tight fabric, we are with a scaber with a sparkling white marble floor. In the exposure of gifts Most works of painting, sculptures and applied arts. Tens of sparkling sides of samovars. Here and large two-type and very small, only one mug of water. Amazed imagination decorated with the thinnest thread of the beer of walrus, elephants and even mammoth. Many products made of red and black wood, moraine oak, gold, glass, crystal and coral. The richest palette of the shades and nuances in articles of skillful masters can be admired by the clock. Among the gifts - three-meter porcelain vases, painted by Indian and Chinese masters, a chasing from Pakistan, blue-white tableware from Gzheli, Japanese widths of rice paper, Netske, a wooden statuette of a giraffe from South Africa.

Dmitry Yazov, the last Minister of Defense of the USSR, presented the son of the Great Leader Golden Sable with a commemorative magnitude of the Mother of the World Proletariat, Gold-plated shepherds with gems. I was struck by the addiction of our politicians to cold weapons. In the book reviews, the leader of the Russian Communists wrote: "You have built a society, whose similarity we strive and strive for all the years." Someone from the leadership of the Communist Party of the Russian Federation presented the great leader Kim Jong Iru a small bronze bust of Lenin. Does these busts still make someone either from old party reserves?

In one of the halls, as alive, it is Kim Il Saint in full size. Black suit, white shirt, gaze through large horny glasses. Each hairs on hand as a real. This is a gift of the Chinese people to the anniversary of the death of the Great Chief. Local women leave the hall in tears, we are limited to a common bow.

In the cozy corner of the forest, on the shore of the river, the channel of which is dinner with huge boulders, lunch is awaiting us. In small braziers, coals are smoldering, nurses a gray smack. Waitresses in red sports costumes spread long white tablecloths on the ground, clashes and plates with snacks. Quietly murmurs water, rich stones, the sun shines brightly. From the raspberry cedars in the meadow long spotted shadows. Above the flow of a fire smoke and a few people in a black passenger car. And we guess who they are ... Raise toasts for friendship, for the prosperity of countries. On the roasters, proceeding with an appetizing smell, meat is preparing. We sing permitted Korean songs, then go to the Russians. Under the accompaniment of the improvised noise orchestra from bottles filled with pebbles from under beer and covers from a saucepan with inspiration dance our grandmothers and seventieth grandfathers.

Half an hour ride on a good road - and we at the foot of Moinsan Mount, which we have to conquer. A thousand nine hundred meters above sea level, and from the foot of just a half kilometer. Raised along the riverbed of the crystal clear river, and with each meter, our gaze opens unimaginably beautiful views. Yellow-red-green-orange blummer leaves of trees and bushes. On blue rocks, transparent-emerald water flows. Touching with the rocks, she flourishes at the foot of the waterfalls with a seven-color rainbow. On our way they are nine. The last ninety meal waterfall is at the very top of the mountain. A steps are cut on steep climbs in the rock, and metal stairs with railings are installed on the most sheer places. Climbing upstairs. By swinging cable bridges, we cross the mountain river several times, on all fours, an alternate boulders hang over the path. Panting from the inexpressible delight and lack of air in the lungs, we gradually approach the top.

Not all under the power of such a walk. Until the penultimate arbor gets only twenty people. And on the very top to the beginning of the ninth waterfall rises only twelve. The last one comes a seventy-year-old grandfather. On local legend, to the one who goes to the top of the mountain, there is a long life.

Enjoyed swimming in a cold mountain stream. Water is so soft that the body seems to be smeared with cream. Half an hour to rest, and the descent begins. It turns out that go down the steep slopes are not at all easier than climbing up. All lost already on the bus and applause meet everyone descending from the mountain. The hotel returned at dusk. After dinner, fall asleep under the solemn oratories about the current leader of the people, the great leader Kim Jong Ira. The words most consumed in the songs are Tiongun (leader) and Manse (Hurray).

Separated families

There is no trail from yesterday's fatigue. Waking up in the seventh o'clock in the morning, go walking around the village. I did not have time to move away from the hotel and close to the first buildings, as I heard: "Sleeping! Sleepy! " (which means - "Guest"). The breathless man in military uniform without signs of distinction hastily explains to me that it is impossible to go further. Restricted area! It is impossible, so it is impossible. I treat it with a cigarette - does not refuse. Cost - smoke. At the same time, he tries all the time to close something with his skinny back. Something consists of squat buildings of a barrack type and marching soldiers on the fee. Well, this is just not surprised by this. On the Sakhalin almost in every village, military units - the border zone! And to prohibitions for movement we were accustomed since childhood.

In front of the monetary reform of 1961, we lived in the village of Larch Novo-Alexandrovsky District. Once every three months, my parents, as stateless persons, were to be registered in the district police department. Then, as Socialist Democracy Developed, this time has increased to six months, and subsequently to one year. During the heyday of developed socialism, the registration of Koreans (foreigners of other nationalities permanently residing on Sakhalin was practically not) was produced every two years, became familiar and not perceived as infringement of rights. Generation

the parents born in the occupied Korea were hardworking, submissive and law-abiding.

An illiterate father took me with him into the police department or OVIR (Visa and registration department of foreigners and stateless persons) to fill out questionnaires. How many children filled with children's handwriting sheets and arrival is stored in the archives of the region, no one knows. There were numerous typical answers, which should be adhered to strictly. In the column "from where he arrived" was supposed to write: "Released by the Soviet Army on Sakhalin," and in the column "the purpose of arrival" - "arrived at permanent residence." Naturally, there were no relatives abroad for the arrivals and mobilized by the Japanese to the forced work of people, otherwise the registration procedure became complicated many times. A week later, the passport with a mark of registration was issued to the owner.

The absurdity of the situation was that there was another administrative education between the village and the district center - the city of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. There was a special permission to enter the city, which had to go to the same district center in a single road passing through the city, which could not be entered into persons "without citizenship" without a special permission. At that time, the citizens of the USSR among the Koreans were almost no, therefore, the "removal" of the violators of the passport regime from buses and trains was the usual phenomenon. Want to distinguish between the service - check the passport from any adult Korean, coming out of the bus at the train station, or go to the market, where village women sell vegetables and greens.

I must say that our district policeman was a man in his own way and no one was disturbed by anyone. From time to time, some people gathered money among the residents of the village in Gifts to the policeman and the Chairman of the Poss. But there were other, punctually observing the law, and then the penalty was inevitable. Saved the fact that for many representatives of the law, all Koreans were on one person. Therefore, if necessary, you can always take the USSR passport for rent. The prohibition of movement remained until the end of the nineties ...

Before breakfast, I wander around the hotel in a beautiful granite promenade. Multicolored hills on the beach, under the legs bright yellow leaves of the sapran, the fisherman on an inflatable boat caught white big fish and

short paddle hits her head. The wips of black and white forties are shy. Freshness of autumn morning and gentle rays of the sun raise my mood.

In the city of Anju, where we go after breakfast, twelve people from our group will meet today with their relatives from nearby cities and villages. Grandmother waiting for a meeting with an eighty-five-year-old mother, it seems that I lost weight from excitement and already once again looks at the wall clock in the lobby of the hotel.

From the day of separation, thirty-five years have passed. Now she is already sixty-five. Three years ago, she who came on the same ticket to North Korea was not allowed to meet with the elderly mother because of the mourning announced in connection with the death of Kim Il Siena. The heart attack, which happened from her, and the difficulty with obtaining a visa postponed the meeting for long days. How are the meetings of the member of scattered families with mourning, the usual mind is not understood. High politics and state need - mystery for seven seals.

For almost a hundred years, the tragedy of Koreans continues. At the beginning of the twentieth century, Japan annexed Korea for a long thirty-five years. Forty five years old could not meet with their relatives forgotten by the Sakhalin Koreans. In 1937, Russian Koreans who lived in the Far East from the end of the nineteenth century were deported. One hundred eighty-five thousand people in the cold October were loaded into the commodity wagons and through the entire Siberia transported to the snow-covered Kazakh steppes. For forty people in the wagons, three compositions per day. The dead folded to the walls of the car, so that it was warmer. So the dead saved lively. On the forgotten deserted half-windows, sleeping begging sneous graves remained.

In 1945, by decision of the USSR and the United States, Korea was divided into two states of the thirty-eighth parallels. Divided, conducted a fatal line in the mountains and rivers, cities and villages, the fate and souls of people.

Bypassing two checkpoints, drive up to a small suburban hotel located on a low hill. Twenty-thirty people, elegantly dressed by the standards of half a century located at the mid-time position of the country, with excitement peer into the windows of the driving bus. Everything around is permeated with a sense of waiting and some anxiety. The door opens. Welcomers, hugs, sobs and suddenly - silence. Silent, pepper in each other, through wrinkles and years of waiting to recognize their own traits. And only a hand in hand - not to break.

Our grandmother has finally met her old mother. Stand, hugging. Both fragile, dry, very similar - not to distinguish, only the hair of the mother whiter. Having learned the history of the life of this little energetic woman, many would be shocked.

In the distant province in the south of the Korean Peninsula, in the village of Waterfalls and sheer rocks, a charming girl lived, daughter of rich parents. It's time, and she fell in love with a slim beautiful young man from a poor peasant family. Such banal, eternal stories happen at all times on all continents and they do not teach anyone. The young man liked the girl, but he was ambiguous, and he had his views on this life. Any other in his place, probably, would take advantage of the opportunity to escape from needs. He did not want to be a full servant in his wife's house or poor son-in-law in his own home. Beauty and mind - a terrible combination.

Rich their faders. Girl's parents were visible so long, incomprehensible and indecent, in their opinion, the resistance of a young man. The whims of the only daughter can be crazy any father. Wanting happiness with her beloved daughter, the parents fenced to themselves to marry them. In secret, they gave the younger money for further education and persuaded him to marry. After the official ceremony and a rich feast, a newly new husband suddenly disappeared together with money, and the sobbing wife, following the strict Confucian rules of that time, moved to live in the wretched Keek's hut.

Not his wife and not a widow lived for four years in a serious, unusual peasant labor. She did not give back to parents, it would disgrace their last name for a thousand. Brothers, seeing the exorbitant sister's suffering, decided to find and approximately punish the escaped husband who is rumored somewhere in Japan. After two months of persistent searches, they managed to find a fugitive in Tokyo, where he ended his education at the Higher School. The brothers delivered a resisted student to his wife, who was waiting for him in a small apartment on the outskirts of the city, and began to wait for her soon court. The female heart is not subject to mind. Years of tests were not gone for a married couple. Mutual love and passion broke out with such a force that now the brothers had to literally tear them away from each other, so that a prodigal husband could pass the final exams.

They had a daughter who was in one year old, in 1936, they brought to Sakhalin. The girl grew, not knowing the need, diligently attended school, played with the younger brothers and sisters, and it is not known how her fate would have formed if the war had not begun. Each person and joy and grief are given in equal proportion, and then through the prism of time they are so mixed that they become indistinguishable.

In one of the summer days of all children and women of the Miner's village, they plunged into open railway platforms and were taken towards Toyhary - the current Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. The weather was bad, the bombers did not fly, and the family got to Tewejara per day with a little, without any special incidents. There were rumors that a few days earlier the same composition with refugees from the north fell under the shelling. And also the knowledgeable argued that the Russians landed the Russians on the approach to the city. So believe after that rumors and knowledgeable people. Northerners were placed in the station hotel. Due to the lack of places, several families, including their native girls, the next day was sent in the commercial car in Otomari (city of Korsakov). After half an hour after sending the composition, the station was bombed, and the hotel building was destroyed. Many fellow villagers died. In Korsakov, they were late for the ship, which was supposed to take them into Japan, but, as it turned out, and then they were lucky. Transport with refugees on the approach to the island of Hokkaido Skilled an unknown submarine. Not a single person remains alive.

A month later, her father was found. In search of a family through the port of Maoca (now Holmsk), he got into Japan, and then returned to Sakhalin to continue the search. Stepping from the ladder of the steamer, on the very first street Korsakov (then Otomari) he met his daughter. Life collisions are almost always unexpected by any controversial scenes. After the surrender of Japan, the family of the Soviet authorities sent a residence permit to the Poronsky district. Do I need to describe the need for post-war years? Elder daughter on a par with adults resistant tolerated all the new life. For two years, a persistent girl externally finished four classes of Korean school, dreamed of becoming a doctor, but life ordered in his own way. I had to leave school and make a household to help parents feed the family. In sixteen years, according to the customs of those years, the girl was married. A year later, the father was missing, who worked in one of the Lespromkhozov. All responsibility for fate of children lay on his wife's shoulders and eldest daughter. Not having the opportunity to receive education in the USSR, sister and three brothers will go to North Korea to continue studying at the University named after Kim Il Senya, and after a year, after the children, Mom will leave.

On a distant island land, she will remain completely alone with a paralyzed husband and three children in his arms. Three more olders died in infancy after severe illness. Eighteen years of life will devote her to care for a fixedly lying sick person, all his youth and mature women's years. Years of rage and suffering, despair and humility, jealousy and pity, hatred and love. To feed the family and raise three children, a small fragile woman will get a job in a construction team, the time to keep the farm with the garden and all sorts of homely alignment. From the unbearable male work, hands were terribly hurt and the back did not begged. Once she fell from dyskhaty forests on a barrel with a haired lime. A severe injury of the spine for a long time chained it to a hospital bed. Juvenile children, the older turned thirteen years old, wore the transmission to the hospital, looked after the cattle, boiled themselves to their mother, diligently visited the school.

It was all: and lonely cold evenings, full of hopeless despair, and holidays with honorary certificates and beautiful words. But they didn't give her strength. On this earth held her indispensable desire to grow children, save her husband and see mom. What spiritual forces allowed her to make this feat? Ask her. "What is special here, everyone lives," she will answer. Even now, in old age, it works to help brothers and sister living in Korea. Today her dream come true. Thirty five years later she meets with her mother, and only four hours they were released on this meeting ...

Once again we are invited to the bus. Slowly departing, leaving them, infinitely happy and unfortunate, on the small patch of the land in the midst of a huge world. For a fee, they will be provided with a single room where they will finally stay alone. A sixty-year-old daughter will throw a pre-purchased one in advance, carefully saved warm jacket and a fluffy handkerchief. Forgetting about everything in the world, holding one hand for the worn, dry mother's hand, it will be something to search in Baulas, finally, will get a carefully folded in the lingerie several hundred dollar bills and decompose them in mom's pockets so that with a random search did not take everything at once . Whole white and, like a child, a little mother with happy tears in his eyes patiently tried out all the updates, occasionally interested in prices and in childishly surprised by the results of some kind of non-slip counts. She will diligently try everything to treat her daughter, dozens of times asking for the health of grandchildren. In a few minutes, they will tell each other about themselves, about the common acquaintances and former neighbors, with horror aware of what to say, in essence, nothing. Everything is clear without words. And pay the daughter, surpassed to the hand of the mother, and the old mother, almost weightless hand, caressing her hair, will be redefined to peer into some kind of turbulent, one of her known Dal ... So they will come out, cry, holding hands, from glass Doors of the hotel and silently step towards the eternal separation ...

The world is huge, but there is no land anywhere where the mother and daughter could meet ... Maybe everything is in heaven ...

Long mashed by weightless hand mother after the bus, forever the gray daughter, forever from her. The smooth hum of the bus engine is interrupted by sobs and heavy sighs. Is it all right? And did not meet the meeting?

Eternity looks out the window with silver wedges of stars ... Everything was mixed in me, whether the dream, or the point - I do not understand. Maybe I lived my life, or life only gave me ... Silver star on a cold, foggy window ...

In North Korea - "Thaw", a weak breeze of change. The signs of the new appear as small green sprouts on a cracked concrete road leading to the old barracks. Maybe over the years there will be beautiful trees here, and maybe tomorrow the ruthless rink will give away the weak shoots. And then again the day and night will march the column of revolutionary soldiers along the road.

The cities and towns open markets, occasionally there are kiosks and trading tents. In stores - let the currency and the goods appeared on the shop windows. Big young people appeared, buying hazards - renovate trees. In cities, the western production machines are often found. As one of the guides said in a private conversation, the experience of the Chinese "restructuring" is learning in Korea. They have been "special relationships" with China for a long time. Local residents who have relatives there can almost freely visit them in private visas, whereas a fifty-year-old age qualifications are installed on a similar trip to Russia.

In my world

It is reliably unknown, whose experience was supervised by the authoritarists of the last century to mummify the departed leaders and heroes. Whether the Pharaohs of Ancient Egypt, who wanted to appear in front of God, Komilfo, whether the Papuans of the western part of New Guinea, who brought the dead-grades for long memory and as a reserve grocery supply. Most likely, the Communists and other people simply did not want to give a new nationwide God for the egregation of bacteria and used the successes of chemistry and biology in the conservation of corpses. After all, in 1881, the body of the great physician Nikolai Pirogov was successfully mummified in the suburb of Vinnitsa, and in the second decade of the 20th century "singing" and in Europe, and overseas.

While the dictator is alive, the great power is concentrated in his hands. In order to adopt her inheritance to the fullest, the successors of the well-willed gods created three-dimensional icons from their corpses, quite miraculous. Remember the Soviet cry: "Lenin lived, Lenin is alive, Lenin will live!". With Vladimir Ilyich, we are our excursion to the history of the pharaoh of the last century and begin.

1. Vladimir Ilyich Lenin

It is now a visit to Ilyich's Mausoleum on Red Square is considered a symptom of latent necrophilia. Thirty years ago, in the tomb of the Ultrasher of Russia, the queues were built longer than the imported servelatt.

Lenin asked him to have buried him after death, as a normal person, but asked unconvincing. Therefore, the leadership of the countries of the Councils organized the reception of fake telegrams from workers and peasants with a request to protect the body of the leader from Tlen. From 1924 to this day, Volodya without brains and indoors is soaring under the bulletproof glass, only for the period of the war, 1941-45, while moving on a business trip to Tyumen. So in our days it periodically undress, wash, swim and dress in a clean suit. And in 1998, the two Moscow artists-Shalopayev created an unusual cake in the form of Mummy Ilyich, who in the exhibition at the expense of the invited journalists and art historians. Under mourning music.

2. Grigory Kotovsky

The optional character of jokes about Vasily Ivanovich and Petka, famous for his shiny bald and iron character, Cottovsky was the first bandit among the heroes of the Civil War and the first hero among the gangsters of Novorossia. Gregory Ivanovich was killed in 1925 in Chabank, near Odessa.

A year and a half passed after the death of Lenin, so the legendary red commander was also decided to perpetuate the mummification and put on the universal review in Mausoleum in the city of Birzul renamed Kotovsk. In 1941, drunk Romanian soldiers were abused over the body of the Hero of Sovietization. Prior to the end of the occupation, his remains were hidden in the basement locals, pre-obtay alcohol. In 1965, "Mausoleum number 3" was restored in the form of a stele over a globe, now it has a sad look and in the evenings is littered with husks from seeds and beer tara. The entrance to the tomb is closed on a rusty castle, but if you find a ball in the local museum, you can enter and take a look at the legend of the Bessarabian steppes through the window in the lid of the coffin.

3. Georgi Dimitrov

Bulgarian "Stalin" Georgi Dimitrov died in 1949 in the sanatorium near Moscow somehow ugly. Nobody noticed him a clear deterioration of health, and at the opening discovered cirrhosis of the liver and heart failure. There is a version that the leader of the Bulgarian Communists poisoned mercury, but it is not recognized as official. After death, Dimitrov's body was dismissed, returned to their homeland and put out the deposit in the Mausoleum in the center of Sofia, which was built in just six days (!) - So strong turned out to be "Love People" to the leader of the Comintern.

After the fall of the Belin wall, the glass coffin with the body of Dimitrov secretly, so that no one seen, betrayed the earth, and in 1999, Bulgarians celebrated the 50th anniversary of the construction of the Mausoleum, Barbarusa destroying it ... from the fifth time. Now at the site of the tomb - the usual concrete site, which can be riding on a skate or on a large. Or even on Bulgarian buffalo.

4. Eva Peron.

Beauty actress, the wife of Pharaoh Argentina Juan Peron, in his lifetime caused admiration and envy in men and women of all the globe. Having married a dictator, I loved not so much of himself how much power and, as historians consider, I intended to even move the husband from the throne, changing the theater usual to the theater geopolitical and becoming a national "symbol of social justice", and then "in the skirt".

In 1952, at the age of 33, Evita died from cancer of the uterus. Her body displaced the best mummifier, which were able to find the Argentine authorities, on the nicknamed "Master of Art of Death". Two years of sarcophagus with a charming corpse of Signora Peron stood in the house of Juan. "As if she sleeps," everyone who saw said.

In 1955, Peron overthrew, and the mummy of the legendary woman was taken to Milan and buried under the fictional name. Peron, who soon returned to power, married again, and only in 1974 the body of Evita returned to his homeland and was restored in a family crypt. Pilgrims - Darkness! Yes, only the beauty did not seek before.

5. Joseph Vissarionovich Stalin

There was such a joke. Say, the Bolsheviks of Stalin's corpse will be hollowed in Lenin's Mausoleum, and in the morning the coffin with the mustache turns out in the backyard of the tomb. And so several times in a row, despite the reinforced guard. Decided to check what is happening for Divo. And in Moscow, it comes midnight, an angry Ilyich is coming from the Mausoleum to battle and with the words "how much can you repeat that there is no hostel!?", Highlights "Father of Peoples" on fresh air.

The body of a smokers and a drunkard, who allegedly poisoned by the doctors, was concerned and brought to the zikkurat near the Kremlin walls in March 1953.

And on Halloween's holiday, October 30, 1961, after the Herman Titov flew into space and handed over Khrushchev that God was not against who intended to rise in the image of Zombie Stalin decided to bury in Moscow Earth. Thought - at the Novodevichy cemetery, but they cleared, and gave the Blood Kobe to the hole in the Kremlin wall. Against the backdrop of roses, countrymen and Marshal Tolbukhina. Since then, Lenin is alone.

According to the Internet portal "Futvyoz", in the top ten mummified celebrities and famous mummies (O, Isis, when I will learn to write without tautologies!) Enter our old familiar, Holy Bernadetta (I hope you remember,), frozen Deva Huanita From Peru, Baby Rosalia Lombardo, a man of Tolunde from prehistoric Denmark and the mysterious lady Dai, found in China.

We are always remarkable by their memory at a convenient case, but still come back to our barrels, that is, tyrants. At the same time we will try in the mind of predicted, who will be the next "sleeping beauty", in the new century. Did you really think about the expensive reader?

What a pity that the author, whose awareness of the role of leaders in the life of the masses coincided with five-year-old lush funerals, did not preserve the drawing of a monumental structure, made by the fan in school notebook, signed by the "Pyramid Andropov" ...

6. Clement Gotald

And laughter, and sin, but it is officially believed that the leader of the post-war Czechoslovakia Clement Gotvland was mortally cold at the funeral of the Comrade Stalin. The fact that the Chairman of the CCF was a syphilitic and alcoholic, the calculation is not taken into account. The people decided that Stalin decided to take with him the same as he, Marxist reformer. Together it was nice to reminister repressions and Holodomor.

Of course, Gotulad was concerned. But whether the formula of the preservative was incorrectly calculated, whether the damned sabotues put their hands, but he had a bit in the ugly, spoiling a look of beautiful Prague, mausoleum, Czech №1 began to deteriorate.

Every one and a half years, the Clement had to blunt again, replacing the fragments of fragments with decorative inserts. In 1960, when, despite the efforts of court mediquors, Gotvduld was completely black, the mausoleum was closed "to overheet", and two years of the weather, the gloomy and busty corpse was cremated. Well, and the world of his dust and pioneer salute.

7. Ho Chi Min

The founder of the Soviet power in Vietnam, good grandfather Ho Chi Mini naively visited him to be cremated after death. But no matter how! The best masters of Eastern Medicine, working hand in hand with Soviet experts in 1969 allegedly created a miracle - the disguised body of Ho Chi Minh to this day looks like he did not die, but it was imposed on an hour and another to suck.

Skeptics Taldychhat, as if in the sarcophagus lies not the body of the leader, but a doll. And that in the basement under the Mausoleum grandfather Ho is the most terrible underground prison in Vietnam. To spit skeptics into the eyes and make a personal opinion, you must fly in Hanoi, pay 2 dollars per ticket and visit the majestic mausoleum. And then tell us, okay?

8. Mao Zedong

The Great Feeding PRC Mao Zedong did not wash and did not clean his teeth. There was such a sin, with all merits. Maybe it happened after a handshake with a friend?

Moreover, in 1956, Mao signed the law that all China's cultural leaders after death should be betrayed fire. 20 years have passed, and Zedong died in the results of two heart attacks on the 83rd year of life. And no one decided to burn him. It was concerned - both in a crystal coffin, for nationwide worship. Ears, however, stomach stones and stomach. Soviet experts could not help, because in the 1970s, the USSR and the PRC did not speak with each other, composed interoboral poems and melted cartoons.

It is believed that Mausoleum Mao Zedong should withstand any cataclysms - earthquakes, default and even a nuclear missile strike. For 35 years, about 180 million people visited the tomb of the Chinese pharaoh.

9. Enver Khoja

Unlike Khoji Nasreddin, Enver Khoja on the donkey did not go and did not differ special wisdom. But I transplant all Albania to Oslov, forbiding private vehicles during my authoritarian rule. Serial Stalinist, Khoja fought with the "enemies of the people" and called in his honor. And the cult of Stalin himself in Albania, has managed to overradize with the whole world, even with China, remained until the end of the 1980s.

With the coming in the USSR to the power of the charming terminator Gorbachev, Comrade Khoja Snik, buried, suffered a heart attack and died in November 1985. Mourning lasted 9 days. Batzka was familiarized and placed not even in mausoleum, but in the real pyramid. And in 1991 reburied to the ground on the usual cemetery. Pyramid Khoja now serves as a conference room, concerts and exhibitions.

10. Kim Il Saint

There was no, no, and there will be no love on Earth more than the one who experiences the people of the DPRK to Comrade Kim Il Sayne, which built the most isolated state in the world and who has grown from a heart attack in search of a place to negotiate the union of two Korea in 1994. After death, he was declared the "eternal president" of Korea, dismissed and transferred to the huge memorial palace "Kymusan", which occupies an area of \u200b\u200b350 hectares. A billion dollars was spent on the repair of the building once. This is in the country where everything is on cards.

To get to the sacrament to "eternity", you need eat not one dog To overcome many Kafkian stairs and corridors. Outdoor sarcophagus with the body of Kim Il Siena photographing is prohibited under the fear of death. Eyewitnesses tell that the head of the leader ... Gone. Official excursions "under the cone" are held on Thursdays and Sundays. A foreigner has to negotiate admission in advance, very in advance. Usually refuse.


In the modern world, a large number of mausoleums: Tito dictators and Khoji in Belgrade and in Tirana, the revolutionary Che Hevars in Cuba and Lenin in Moscow, a prominent historical figure of Barclay de Tolly in the village of Yygevesta in Estonia, the Polish king of Vladislav III in Lodz, Ho Chi Mini Hanoi, etc. Mausoleum in Pyongyang, perhaps, one of the most interesting and grandiose.

Kim Il Saint died on July 8, 1994, which caused universal grief. A massive hysterium began, people ran outside and beat their heads about asphalt, not knowing how to live on. A three-year-old mourning was announced in the country. The Supreme People's Assembly declared Kim Il Sena "Eternal President of the DPRK", and on the day the date of the birth of the North Korean leader began to celebrate the holiday "Day of the Sun", because he has a nickname "Sun of the Nation". This holiday, I think, especially love the kids, because on this day there are sweets and some other scarce products. The mausoleum claims that on the day of death Kim Il Seine, the land lost a part of the weight under the weight of his loss and barely did not touch the orbits, and the tears of the Korean people were burning stones and turned into stones themselves, and precious.

Kim Jong Il died on December 17, 2011 in the armored spent during an inspection trip around the country. The official North Korean Tax Agency reported that he died "from mental and physical overwork caused by continuous inspection trips around the country in the interests of building a prosperous state." The leader's body was transported to the Father in the Memorial Museum.

Before going to the mausoleum, we were asked to get dressed restrained, preferably officially and in black. Foreigners are allowed in the mausoleum only on Thursday and Sunday. Each North Korean should be in this place, this is something like Mecca. The buses are driven from all over the country of workers and schoolchildren so that they can worship the Grand Chief.

At the entrance to the mausoleum - a thorough inspection, take a camera with you will not work. At first we drove on a long horizontal escalator along the corridor, whose marble walls are hung with photographs of leaders in different periods of their life, there is even a picture of Kim Jong Ira with Putin in Moscow.

Inside the building is divided into two sections - the first is dedicated to Kim Il Sayna, another - Comrade Kim Jong Iru. I can not believe that you are in the marble halls with gold and jewelry, and it is not clear what simple peasants think when they see such a luxury.

In front of the entrance to the inner room with the bodies of the leaders, we pass another view where the jets of the air are blown away, apparently, so that our earthly dust is asslaved on the great :)

We share in groups of 3-4 people and come to bow. Conduct before the leader to the floor, being a face to him, and twice, going on the side. It is very funny to watch American tourists who are bounted by North Korean leaders, because it is about this leaders and dreamed, although after death.

I read in one report that hysterics occur with many in mourning halls, we have such such such. We did not know if the uncle was joking from Kemerovo or the truth? There is no understandable here who is your neighbor in the bus, what if he is a chucheist and shifted on Korea? It turned out that he was joked, and hysteria in the elevator was humor, but I, to be honest, I still don't know if he believes :)

Also, an funny case occurred with Igor from Kiev, a politician from the Klitschko party "Strike". He was accepted by the local organs of the KGB and staged a survey right in the mausoleum in a special room. What exactly wanted to know from him - I do not know. Perhaps they felt that Maidan soon? Chute Koreans!

Then they showed personal belongings and cars of the leaders, hit the exhibition - railway cars in which they traveled around the world. There were also halls with awards, a rather tedious and uninteresting occupation - to read letters and look at the medals from Nepal's governments or Cuba, but we must endure :)

Nikita, however, decided to drink lemonade and discuss the pressing political problems of the world and attenuating the West with a comrades of Dzo.


Judging by other reports, a visit to the American warship "Pueblo" is a classic. You will see watching a patriotic mini-film about the detention of "American spies". The ship detained near the water of the DPRK, forced the captain under the threat of the crew death to confess the espionage (in fact, the ship was intelligence). Historians believe that this day the world was on the verge of a nuclear war.

An interesting point, the North Korean delegation at the meeting on the participation of sailors from Pueblo gave to understand the delegations that he did not release the captured carriage, while it is not officially apologized for the illegal passage to the territorial waters of the DPRK of the American intelligence vessel. Syotrech refused to apologize to the DPRK, and the North Koreans were not going to produce American prisoners. Negotiations stalled, as a result of which the crew "Pueblo" spent almost a year in the North Korean prison. Under the Natius of the public, the Americans publicly apologized (!!!) in front of the DPRK - and the sailors were released on the will. This, of course, shame for and glory for the DPRK, this story they are rightfully proud of.


It is curious that for the first time in 160 years the American ship was commissioned by the enemy. The team was sent according to the Tribunal, although the simple American people considered their heroes. Naturally, the ship has become one of the main attractions in Pyongyang, and it is still listed as part of the Navy in the status of "Captive".

Our museum guide


We also visited the Museum of Military Equipment, which participated in the war. The whole technique is Soviet, who fought on the side of the northerners, and broken, the American, who fought on the side of South.



It was there that we saw it for the first time. Union of the University of Korean Student, the University of Kim Il Shen, she had a great Russian language and practiced in him, conducting excursions for Russian couple. She stand out among other koreans - a higher growth and not hellishly thin, as the majority, probably, she was a fastened daughter of the diplomat :) Well, in short, Nikita fell in love, and that it was a little sin, I don't want to attach it too For eternal disputes about beauty.

On this day, we also visited a large bookstore, where there were many literature even in Russian. The covers themselves speak for themselves.


In the DPRK, as I said, the leaders are attributed to all merits: from creating an irrigation system to the compositions of songs. For example, this book Comrade Kim Jong Il wrote about cinema. Of course, the sin was not to buy it.


In the evening, we went to the Juche monument - this is a spray from a granite with a height of 170 meters, built in 1982. Hence the coolest view of Pyongyang.


Some buildings in the world, the silhouettes of which become a business card of the whole country: Eiffel Tower in Paris, sail in Dubai, Statue of Liberty in New York, the building of the Opera House in Sydney, Pyramids in Cairo, Statue of Christ in Rio. This space hotel was built in North Korea for almost 30 years, if not an isolated country, it would have been with the listed structures in one row. In my opinion, space!



Italian architect Stefano Boary called Ryuhen Hotel - "the only science fiction fragment in the modern world," this building constantly falls into different ratings as one of the most ugly structures in the world. But all the ratings are lying and mistaken, this building is beautiful in its own way - it is from the romance of the 80s. It is worth come only for the sake of it.



From here you can see all familiar buildings of the city




Our hotel on the island


Residential areas. Pay attention that no signs and no advertising. Paradise for the brain, so any city could look if it were not for marketing and thirst for consumption.








Single sign. Probably the sign of the state body.


What is chuche? This is ideology, religion, cult. She sounds beautiful, chuche, means such a situation when a person is the owner and himself, and the whole world around. If I did a sect, I would have written the same :) The problem is only that the philosophical views indicated in Jucha completely contradict the entity of the DPRK. In essence, this is the presentation of the ideas of Marxism-Leninism based on the ancient Korean philosophical thought if you look Wikipedia, then the foundations of the Juche:
- the subject of social movement is the masses.
- Nation with a high feeling of national pride and revolutionary dignity, invincible.
- Unlike the capitalist economy, striving for profits, the main goal of the socialist independent economy is to meet the needs of the country and the population.


Second-philosophical views in Juche:
- Man - the Lord of the world and the owner of his destiny;
- Consciousness - the highest function of the human brain;
- Nature - the object of human labor and the material source of human life;


Before the monument, a monument to the collective farmer, the worker and ... intellectual! This is a pumped version of the Soviet "working and collective farmers." The DPRK has copied the entire ideology from her older brother and adjusted to himself.