The village is red on the volga kostroma. Where to buy jewelry near Kostroma: Krasnoe-on-Volga
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Will you go to Krasnoe?
And what's in there?
Why not. You can't sit still ...
It was with such motivation that we went to the village of Krasnoe-on-Volga. They did not know anything about him. We thought we would take a look at a dusty little rural museum at a school or a cultural center. Therefore, what we saw there amazed, stunned, shocked. But first things first.
Krasnoe-on-Volga is a village in the Kostroma region, a regional center. It has about eight thousand inhabitants. But this village has a rich history. It is much older than the first documentary mention of it. Archaeological research and studies of the cultural layer indicate that people lived here even before the 10th century. The area on the banks of the Volga was too good to be empty for a long time.
The name of the village is associated with the events of the past: according to legend, a battle with enemies took place here, in which so much blood was shed that the Volga flowed bloody and the earth turned red. According to another version, the places here were "red", "beautiful". According to the third version, the village got its name due to the beauty of the products of local folk crafts, for which it has been famous since ancient times.
Krasnoe-on-Volga has always been large and prosperous. The first mention of it in documents dates back to 1569, when it belonged to the Godunovs. In 1592, the Temple of the Epiphany appeared in the village, built by Dmitry Ivanovich Godunov with the blessing of the first Russian patriarch Job. At the beginning of the 17th century, two side-chapels were added to the Epiphany Church, and at the end of the same century, a bell tower was erected. The temple still stands and is a unique monument of hipped stone architecture of the 16th century.
From later documents it is known that Krasnoe was taken into the oprichnina, and then Catherine II in 1762, on the basis of a decree of the Senate, handed the village over to her maid of honor: “... Baron Sergei Stroganov, and her brother, her own brother of the same regiment, retired captain Peter Butakov, we in the Kostroma district favor the village of Krasnoe with 325 souls. " Later, the village again passed into the treasury, and at the beginning of the 19th century, Krasnoye with the surrounding villages was presented to the father of the poet Pyotr Andreevich Vyazemsky for services to the Fatherland. In August 1827, there was a terrible fire, the entire village burned out, including the Vyazemsky estate. Pyotr Andreevich gave all the victims of the fire a large cash allowance, thanks to which the village was revived again. However, the poet did not restore his estate.
In 1864, the Peter and Paul Church was erected next to the Epiphany Church.
Together they formed a wonderful ensemble in the center of the village. It was surrounded by a fence, a monument to Emperor Alexander II was erected in front of it.
Now all this can be seen only in old photographs. In the summer of 1919, an uprising broke out in Krasnoye. The punitive detachment of the Yaroslavl GubChK under the command of Frenkel brutally dealt with the local residents: about 400 people were shot indiscriminately. Among the victims are the priests of local churches. The Peter and Paul Church and the monument to the tsar were blown up, the Epiphany Church was adapted as a warehouse, even the old cemetery was destroyed.
In 1950-1960, under the leadership of the architect I. Sh. Shevelev, the Epiphany Church carried out repair and restoration work, and the temple was returned to its original appearance, which it had by the end of the 17th century. And in 1990 the temple was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church. This is the most important architectural landmark of the village.
Today the village of Krasnoe greets us with red poppies,
attentive glances of the local "lads",
and careful sniffing.
Moreover, Vladimir Ilyich is spying suspiciously from behind the trees.
In the center of the village there is a picturesque green pond.
It is where local boys fish.
What are they catching?
These are the fish. And the bite is good.
And then the village opens up to us from the other side. In the building, behind the boy's back, there used to be an assay chamber - an organization that brands jewelry and state control over the compliance of precious metal products with the samples indicated on them.
Verkhne-Volzhskaya state inspection of assay supervision for more than 120 years. It is a leader in Russia not only in terms of volume, but also in terms of the quality of services provided. She now occupies this building.
And the fact that the largest assay office is located in this village is by no means an accident. Krasnoe is the leader in Russia in terms of the number of jewelers. On the territory of the urban settlement there are 10 large enterprises (factories "Diamant", "Krasnoselsky jewelry production", "Yashma", "Platina", "Aquamarine", "Rossa", "Bizher", "Silver of Russia", "Golden Patterns", "GROWTH"), medium - 5, small - 8, 98 individual entrepreneurs are registered. The Krasnoye-on-Volga also has a Krasnoselsky School of Artistic Metalworking.
How did it happen that an ordinary Volga village became the center of the jewelry business? Precious metals or stones are not mined here, all raw materials are imported. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the land in these places is infertile, the climate is not warm. To feed the family, it was necessary to look for other, non-agricultural earnings. Archaeological research allows us to say that in the 10th century copper and silver were already smelted here, and jewelry was made.
We learn about this in the Museum of Jewelry and Folk Applied Arts.
The history of local peasant life opens the exhibition. Along with traditional things that can be seen in local history museums throughout the country (spinning wheels, irons, towels,
barrels, harness),
each family of Krasny had something special, which you will not see in other places. Here's a device, for example.
This is a wire drawing machine. It was used to make wire. We worked on it like this:
This machine was also used for wire pulling.
And such a device is for making stamped jewelry.
The museum also has a set of hand tools used to make jewelry.
Household utensils, small metal objects, as well as various decorations were made right in the houses where they lived. Old photographs have preserved the daily work of Krasnoye's jewelers: the family at work.
From century to century, traditions and secrets of working with metal were passed from father to son.
Someone was engaged in jewelry business on their own, someone was hired as an apprentice. In the middle of the 19th century, 2,000 artisans were engaged in jewelry production in the village of Krasnoye and its environs. Buyers and large workshops appeared. The village processed about 2, 5 thousand poods of silver per year, which was very large-scale for that time.
By the end of the 19th century, the products of Krasnoselsky jewelry masters were found at all major fairs in Russia. The main assortment was focused on poor buyers - inexpensive copper and silver jewelry, crosses, stamped images, small silver dishes.
With the advent of Soviet power in 1919, it was decided to create an artel for the production of various jewelry for the needs of the country. But few villagers were delighted with this turn of things. Being engaged in jewelry business, the people lived richly and did not want to part with their goods. The artel was created in April, and in July of the same year the village rebelled, not wanting to accept the orders of the new government. In history, these events remained as the "Krasnoselsky mutiny".
But the uprising was suppressed, and the production association "Krasnoselskaya labor production artel of metal products" (its better known name "Red Handicraftsman") began to work. In the 30s, the artel became an industrial collective farm. Local residents, in addition to their main jewelry production, were engaged in agriculture. And during the Great Patriotic War, many craftsmen went to the front, and the enterprise itself began to produce metal products for the needs of the front.
At the end of the 50s, the artel was renamed into Krasnoselsky Jeweler. And in 1960, the Krasnoselskaya Jewelry Factory was organized, where other artels (Metalist, Krasnyi Jeweler and Promkombinat) joined. In 1973, the factory was named Krasnoselskaya Jewelry Factory, which later became the head enterprise of the Yuvelirprom production association.
Since the eighties of the twentieth century, Russian jewelers have been able to officially work with precious metals. Many private jewelry workshops have opened in Krasnoye, producing a variety of products from gold and silver.
The entire history of Krasnoye-on-Volga is reflected in the museum's expositions. As well as the development of different types of metal processing.
One of the most ancient types is chasing.
With the help of such tools - chasers - frames for icons, and sometimes the icons themselves, were made.
Along with chasing, casting and stamping were used.
Sometimes, different metal processing techniques were used in the same product. This is especially noticeable on the bindings of books.
Real works of art!
In addition to cult attributes, since ancient times, utensils (brothers, cups, salt shakers) and tools, decorative figurines and jewelry have been made of silver.
Used for decoration enamel,
and sometimes stones.
The cast figurines just mesmerized me.
But filigree and wire lace brought wide fame to the Krasnosel craftsmen.
The word "skan" goes back to the Old Russian verb "skati" - "twist", "twist several strands into one thread." Along with this word is also used "filigree" (Italian filigrana, from Latin filum "thread" + granum "grain"). They denote one thing - a type of jewelry technique: an openwork or soldered on a metal background pattern of thin wire, smooth or twisted. The materials for the products are alloys of gold, silver, platinum, as well as copper, brass, cupronickel, nickel silver.
First, the wire is annealed to red heat, then bleached in sulfuric acid, straightened, and sorted by thickness. Then they either twist it (in the form of a rope, lace, pigtails, Christmas trees, paths, smooth surfaces, etc.), or leave it smooth, rolled (slightly flattened) in special devices - "rollers".
The parts are bent (according to the sketch) large ones - with fingers, and small ones - with tools. The shapes of the parts are very different: curls, spirals, squares, rings, snakes, cucumbers, cloves ... Smooth and twisted wire are combined to achieve a certain effect.
Scanned patterns are openwork and overhead. Openwork is first glued to the sketch, and then soldered on it. Overheads are glued to the background (metal plate), and then soldered.
An almost finished product is dipped in a sulfuric solution to darken the metal, then polished.
Filigree is often combined with enamel (including enamel), engraving, and chasing. Filigree products are often supplemented with grain (small silver or gold balls creating a play of chiaroscuro) and stones, crystal, mother-of-pearl.
When you look at these vases, salt shakers, boxes, cigarette cases, cup holders, miniature sculptures, you understand how much work and love is invested in each product.
We admired everyone.
Products made using the filigree technique or with filigree elements are very often (in order to ennoble their appearance) silver or gilded. Looks awesome.
This tea table can easily fit in the palm of your hand. And the cups and spoons are generally tiny.
Perhaps he will be just right for this family.
But, probably, like for many, for me the word "jeweler" is associated primarily with women's jewelry. There are many of them in the museum. And they are all different. You involuntarily wonder how it will look on you.
Every jeweler is an artist. Before creating a thing, the master draws it, works through all the details on paper. Therefore, it is not surprising that a part of the museum's exposition is occupied by paintings by Krasnoye Selo artists.
This is what The Fiftieth Psalm looks like.
And so is the path to the heights of wisdom.
Each enterprise in Krasnoe-on-Volga has its own store. We go to one of them after the excursion.
It is not the largest, there is also more. But there was a lot of one shop for me. Because I have never been to such jewelry stores. If we imagine an ordinary supermarket (“Magnet” or “Pyaterochka”), all the counters, showcases, refrigerators of which are filled with samples of (non-repeating) jewelry made of gold, silver and platinum, then it will look like the place where we are.
My head was spinning from the precious shine. You have to come here, clearly understanding what you want to buy. I did not know. In general, I was not ready for the fact that I would find myself in such a place. Therefore, I rushed around the store, wondering what I could buy for myself and as a gift for my relatives, and even not overpay. Until I saw the ionizers.
This is a silver piece on a chain that you put in a glass of water for a while, and silver ions penetrate into the water. Water becomes useful for humans. In addition, silver kills bacteria. At least that's what the sales assistant said. I thought it was a good choice for a gift. A certificate was given for each ionizer. In general, we purchased such a product for ourselves and as a gift (time has shown that this was not the best choice).
While they were waiting for our group, we wandered around the village. Peering into the faces of passers-by, I thought: this is what they are, jewelers. They are no different from us. They go to shops, cultivate vegetable gardens, walk along these streets. This is not at all like the "orthodox" image of the jeweler created in our cinema.
There is such an interesting place in the Kostroma region. Now I know exactly where to go if I want to buy something amazing.
Krasnoe-on-Volga is a small village not far from Kostroma (35 km). Small, but not simple! Girls, hold on ... In this small village there are more than 20 jewelry stores, some of which have become famous brands in Russia, and more modest factories and workshops will surprise you with their prices and designs! Intrigued? Well then let's go !!
I already heard about Krasnoe-on-Volga and its miracles during our first trip to Kostroma (review here). But since at that time we were keen on walking around the city, we never got beyond Kostroma. Our November trip is another matter: this time the trip was by car. In addition, it took place on the eve of my birthday. Why not stop by for a present?))
It was decided to devote half a day to the trip to Krasnoe-on-Volga (yes, we honestly promised that we would not go shopping for more than half a day), and spend the second part of the day in Ples. Oh, if not for the museum, then Natasha and I would have met exactly half a day. They promised Zhenya, he just didn't know about the museum.
Krasnoe-on-Volga is a very small village with a population of just over 7 thousand people. However, its history is rather long and interesting. So, Krasnoye has its own architectural landmarks, for example, the tent-roofed church of the Epiphany (1592). There are also many houses of the early 20th century preserved here. But of course, this is not what attracts knowledgeable tourists here. The village has long been famous for its jewelers. In the 19th century, not a single Russian exhibition was held, so that Krasnoselsky products were not presented there. Where there are factories, there are shops ...
Before the trip, we studied the Internet and mapped out the addresses that we wanted to visit. First of all, we wanted to go to the center of Krasnograd, where stores of different manufacturers are collected, and also to visit the Museum of Jewelry Art.
Krasnoe-on-Volga: addresses of attractions and shops
After active shopping, you can refresh yourself, for example, here.
At the entrance to the city, we noticed a sign to the Yashma plant, and decided to turn onto Okruzhnaya Street. Having parked the car near the first plant (it was the Platina plant), we went inside. We were not greeted there very friendly, especially after learning that we are retail buyers. There was not a single price in the showroom, they refused to tell us the prices. At the same time, the consultants told us that we can order something, and then come in a couple of weeks for the finished product. This approach did not suit us (still, we would like to repeat 400 km for a piece of jewelry). We got into the car and went to the village itself.
After examining the information about the village, we decided that we immediately need to go to Sovetskaya Street. This is the central street where all the most interesting is concentrated.
At the beginning of Sovetskaya Street, we saw a large shopping center "Krasnograd". Can you imagine a shopping center with only jewelry stores? I just want to remember the words of my rabbit brother: "... just don't throw me into the thorn bush." Most of all we liked the store of the Zolotye Uzory factory.
Approximate purchase prices:
Silver earrings - 500-3200 rubles.
Silver ring - 1500 rubles (on average).
A short chain made of silver - 1200 rubles, long from 2000 rubles.
Gold pendant with a 0.16 carat diamond - 22 thousand rubles.
You cannot take pictures inside, so we share photos of our purchases.
In the store of the Sokolov brand, Natasha bought a pair of earrings, the prices there are about the same.
After we with an effort of will were able to tear ourselves away from purchases (and I simply ran out of money), we went to the Museum of Jewelry Art. Initially, somewhat skeptical, they were surprised that the museum was large and interesting. When buying tickets, we also ordered a tour of the halls (the service cost only 300 rubles from everyone).
The museum certainly deserves special attention and is certainly worth an hour and a half spent on it.
The name of the village (the former village) comes from a beautiful (red) place on the banks of the Volga River, where in ancient times there was a pier, here the Volga plots moored.
Krasnoe has been mentioned since 1569, when it was owned by the steward Ivan Dmitrievich Vorontsov, a descendant of the famous F. Vorontsov-Velyaminov, a thousand-year governor, descended from the family of Murza Chet. He came from the Horde in the XIV century to serve the Moscow Grand Duke and founded the Ipatiev Monastery in Kostroma. Murza Chet was baptized in Russia under the name Zakhariya, received land near Kostroma and became the ancestor of the names of the Velyaminovs, Godunovs and Zernovs. However, this has already been said. When the Kostroma district in 1567 was taken to the oprichnina, the old patrimonials were evicted from the district, including Vorontsov.
The village of Krasnoe with the villages was taken to the oprichnina, and I.D. Vorontsov received the village of Namestkovo in compensation in the Bezhetsk district, which he later donated to the Trinity-Sergius Monastery. In the letter of 1569 it is written: “Se az Ivan Dmitrievich, son of Vorontsov, gave the village of Namestkovo in the Bezhetsky Upper to the house of the Trinity, and the Tsar and Grand Duke granted me Ivan the village Namestkov with the villages instead of my patrimony of the village of Krasnoe with the villages that the sovereign took from me that is the village of Krasnoe in the Kostroma district. " Since then, Krasnoe was a palace village and was governed by the order of the Grand Palace.
In 1648, by order of the tsar, the clerk I.S. Yazykov and the clerk G. Bogdanov separated the lands of the palace village of Krasnoye from the neighboring estates: “Summer 7157 (1648 - D.B.) according to the sovereign’s decree and diploma from the Bolshoi Order the palace after the clerk Ivan Fedorov, Ivan Semenovich Yazykov, and the clerk Grigory Bogdanov of the sovereign of the palace village Krasnoe in the villages and in the patrimony of the Ipatiev Monastery of the village of Nefedova, the village of Ivanovsky, and the village of Prisko-Kovo, and those villages of the sovereign from the palace village of Krasnoe The monastery was demarcated, and on the land survey were nobles: Pavel Kartsev, Ilya Bedarev, Andrei Butakov, and the peasants of Prince Vasily Volkonsky, Andrei Golovin. Yes, instead of the peasants, priest Gregory put his hand to the same signature of the village of Krasnoe Epiphany. "
Epiphany Church
Reconstruction by I.Sh. Sheveleva
A description of the village of Krasnoye in 1717 has survived: “In the Kostroma district of the great sovereign in the palace village of Krasnoye, there is a stone church of the Epiphany of our Lord and Savior and three wooden churches: Praise of the Most Holy Theotokos, Nicholas the Wonderworker and the Prophet Elijah.
In those churches there are three households of priests and people in them are 10 men, 16 women, and a sexton's yard, a sexton's yard, and 14 cells, and in them 6 old women and 25 widows and maidens are fed at the churches of God with worldly alms. The priest Gavril has a beggar Peter Vakh-rameev in his hut on his garden land - 76 years old, widows and his son Spiridon is 30 years old, lame in the village of Krasnoye Konyushennaya Sloboda and in it live in that village of Krasnoe clerks and Krasnoselskaya mare stables, hobbyists and herd grooms, two yards of clerks and 13 yards of herd grooms in the same village of Krasnoye of unplowed peasants 63 yards and in them 175 males are female 235.
In that village Krasnoye there are 6 yards of fish fishermen in them males 11 women 14. Rus-novo, der. Kartashikha, der. Novo-Medvedkovo, der. Cheremisskaya, der. Clays, der. Gorelovo, der. Likinovo ".
As can be seen from the census of 1717, the main occupation of the inhabitants of the village of Krasnoye was horse breeding for the royal court and fishing on the Volga. The stone Epiphany Church was built in 1592.
In 1762, by a decree of the Senate of November 30, Catherine II granted “Praskovya Butakova, who was at the court of our maid of honor. The village of Krasnoe with 325 souls in the Kostroma district.
Her son Pavel, who came to power after the death of Catherine II, in 1797 granted the Privy Councilor Khrapovitsky, the former secretary of Catherine, 600 souls in the Kostroma district, including the village of Podolskoye and the villages of Kuznetsovo, Ostafievskoye, Danilovskoye, Ilyino - a total of 16 villages and 17 serfs shower in the village of Krasnoye.
At the beginning of the 19th century, the village of Krasnoe with villages belonged to Pyotr Andreevich Vyazemsky, a poet, critic and friend of A.S. Pushkin.
Russia, Kostroma region, Krasnoselsky district, settlement Krasnoe on the Volga
The village of Krasnoye is obviously much older than the first documentary mention of it (1569). The area on the banks of the Volga was too good to be empty for a long time, it was not for nothing that they called it “red”, that is, “beautiful” (the toponym of the village has nothing to do with the Soviet Newspeak). In addition, important trade routes converged here, nearby, only thirty-five miles away, already
in the XII century, Kostroma was founded, so that the inhabitants of Krasnoye had significant economic benefits from the location of the village. According to local historians, since ancient times there was a pier where merchant plows stayed.
For some time, the village belonged to representatives of the Vorontsov-Velyaminov family, the descendants of the semi-legendary Murza Chet, who came from the Horde, was baptized and entered the service of the Moscow Grand Duke. In 1567, the Kostroma district was taken to the oprichnina, and the old patrimonials were evicted, providing them, however, with some compensation. The first document, where Krasnoye is mentioned, just testifies to this compensation received by Ivan Vorontsov-Velyaminov for the village of Krasnoye seized from him:
"Se az Ivan Dmitrievich son Vorontsov gave the village of Namestkovo in the Bezhetsk Upper to the Trinity house, and the Tsar and Grand Duke gave me Ivan the village of Namestkov with villages instead of my patrimony of the village of Krasnoye with villages that the sovereign took from me that village of Krasnoye in the Kostroma district." ...
Since then, Krasnoye was listed as a palace village, until it passed into the hands of the Godunovs, who rapidly rose under Ivan the Terrible and his son Fedor, and thus returned to the descendants of the already mentioned Chet: the Godunovs, like the Velyaminovs, traced their descent from him.
In the 17th century, Krasnoe, having been in the hands of the Godunovs for a short time, again became a palace. In 1648, by the Tsar's decree, the clerk I. Yazykov and the clerk G. Bogdanov separated his lands from neighboring lands (which belonged, for the most part, to the Ipatiev Monastery), about which the corresponding entry was preserved in the census books:
“Summer 7157 according to the sovereign's decree and letter from the Order of the Grand Palace for the attribution of clerk Ivan Fedorov, Ivan Semenovich Yazykov, and clerk Grigory Bogdanov, the sovereign of the palace village Krasnoe, to the villages and to the patrimony of the Ipatiev Monastery of the village of Nefedova, the village of Ivanovskoye, and the villages of Pri Those villages of the sovereign of the palace village of Krasnoye were separated from the estates of the Ipatiev Monastery, and there were noblemen at the survey: Pavel Kartsev, Ilya Bedarev, Andrei Butakov, and the peasants of Prince Vasily Volkonsky, Andrei Golovin. Yes, instead of the peasants, priest Gregory put his hand to the same signature of the village of Krasnoe Epiphany. "
The fate of the palace peasants, in comparison with the serf share, was undoubtedly happier. But soon the red villagers had to "try on" themselves and the landlord's yoke. Catherine II, who came to power on the tips of noble swords, after accession generously distributed state estates to loyal people. On November 30, 1762, with a light hand, she granted “the village of Krasnoe with 325 souls” to “the former at the court of our maid of honor, Praskovya Butakova, who is now married to the Life Guards of the Cavalry Regiment after Lieutenant Baron Sergei Stroganov, and her brother, her own brother of the same regiment, to retired captain Peter Butakov ".
In addition to Krasnoye, P.G.Butakov and his sister also received the Rybnaya Sloboda of Pereslavl-Zalessky and in the same Pereslavl district the village of Eskovo - in total, more than 1,000 male souls. But Praskovya Grigorievna did not really have to be a rich landowner: in 1763 she died, and part of her passed to her brother Peter. He also died childless, and after his death all the richest inheritance was concentrated in the hands of his widow Avdotya Nikolaevna. However, according to the laws of that time, only one fourth of her husband's estate was owed to her. The rest, in the absence of looking for heirs, passed into the category of "escheat" and had to return to the treasury.
And then a long "redistribution of property" began. On the one hand, a distant relative of Butakov was found, who had served at the time of his death in the Selenga district. On the other hand, the peasants of Rybnaya Sloboda and Krasnoye submitted a petition to the highest name, in which they expressed a desire to return to the Palace Department, pointing out their long-standing privileges and responsibilities in relation to the court.
At this point, Avdotya Nikolaevna Butakova began to sob, offended by the fact that the estates granted to her late husband would be transferred to an unknown distant relative. The Senate was forced to reconsider the decision and ultimately decided: to give Nikolai Butakov the hereditary Butakov villages in the Kostroma and Buisk districts, leave the property to the widow, and return the rest to the Palace Department. So the Krasny peasants got rid of the landlords for a while, and Nikolai Butakov received only seventy-seven instead of the expected thousand souls.
Soon, however, the process of enslavement of the inhabitants of Krasnoye began again. In 1797, Pavel I granted the former secretary of mother A. V. Khrapovitsky 600 souls in the Kostroma district, including 17 souls in the village of interest to us. And a little later, Krasnoye was presented to A.I. Vyazemsky for services to the Fatherland and was inherited by his son Peter.
Pyotr Andreevich did not live in Krasnoye, but he often visited here. And in 1827, when a big fire broke out in the village, he allocated serious sums to help the victims of the fire. It is not known how badly the Epiphany Church suffered and whether it needed repairs, but the manor house burned down, and Vyazemsky decided not to restore it.
Apparently, at the same time wooden churches burned down. Which of them were restored, which were not, we do not know. By the beginning of the XX century, in any case, in the village there was an ensemble of two churches - the cold Epiphany and the warm Peter and Paul, built in the typical "Ton" style in the 1860s at the expense of parishioners. There was also a cemetery church. There was only one parish in the village, the clergy consisted of two priests, a deacon and a psalmist.
"Krasnoselsky mutiny"
July 1919 added a tragic page to the history of the Red Church and the Epiphany Church. In Soviet historiography, the event that will be discussed was called the "Krasnoselsky mutiny". They talked about how, during the six-hour battle, the detachment of the Yaroslavl GubChK, headed by Comrade. AF Frenkel, fought courageously against the counter-revolutionaries and restored the revolutionary order.
In reality, everything was somewhat different. Indeed, in Krasnoye - despite its seemingly "communist" name - "old-regime" sentiments were extremely strong. The people, engaged in jewelry craft, lived richly, did not sympathize with the arrival of the Bolsheviks, did not want to go to serve in the Red Army. And the uprising did take place, fortunately, hundreds of deserters (many with weapons) were hiding in the village and its environs. However, the first victims of Frenkel's punitive detachment were not they, but two deaf and dumb, returning from the forest with berries. They were hacked to death right on the road. The punishers then killed a Red Army man who was on leave from being wounded and who showed a document about it. In general, apparently, they did not understand Russian very well. Apparently, it was one of the so-called international detachments. The old residents of Krasnensk, who survived those terrible days, later called their tormentors either Latvians or Czechs.
Events took an even more bloody turn when in the neighboring village of Danilovskoye one of its residents killed a member of the detachment, an employee of the Yaroslavl Cheka A. Shcherbakov. In the conclusion of the investigative commission of the YargubChK, the ensuing "operation" was highlighted as follows: "The entire counter-revolutionary element and the kulaks with. Krasny was mercilessly shot for the murder of Comrade Shcherbakov on the same day. In human terms, this is what happened: they seized about four hundred people (without disassembling, of course, into "elements"), scattered them in the basements of the shops and, summoning them by name, shot them in front of the entire people. At the same time, it is known that the punitive forces were forced to take part in the execution of local communists - such is the "nechaev" practice.
On Saturday morning we woke up on the water and from the window we could see the following:
This is the hotel "Ostrovsky pier" (street 1 May 14), which was made in the former landing stage of the river port. Sleeping on the water is a separate pleasure. I know that shamans often use it as a medicine. It is only important that the flow enters from the side of the head and exits through the legs. Then it takes away the internal rubbish with it. If you sleep on the contrary, that water collects all this internal garbage, but cannot remove it from the body and it remains at the level of the head, which therefore hurts in the morning.)
There is no soundproofing in the hotel itself, so you can hear sneezing in the next room and how the maids clatter their mops in the morning, but, of course, all this is nothing compared to sleeping on the water and morning meditation without getting out of bed.
Each room on the ground floor has a balcony. And these are the views from him. Probably you can also fish in the summer.
After enjoying the views from the room, we went to the village of Krasnoe on the Volga - the center of the jewelry craft. On the way we examined Kostroma. The city looked welcoming from the car window. For example, with such houses. I would still return to Kostroma.
The village of Krasnoe on the Volga is located 35 km from Kostroma. And it is known as the center of the jewelry industry. Today in the village there are 570 registered jewelry enterprises out of 750 in the region. And there is its own chamber, which puts samples on precious metals.
And in order to figure out what's what in this village, we first went to the local museum (Sovetskaya street, d49a) and ordered an excursion (350 rubles). Museum group in contact: (quite informative), museum website.
The photo shows the actual building of the museum. If you have time, go around the building on the left side (if you are facing it) and find a small brick extension. They hold filigree master classes for children and adults (200-300 rubles per hour)
So, the museum, Krasnoe Selo from the 9th century was known as the center of jewelry handicraftsmen who created jewelry mainly for the common people. For example, such crosses were taken to the fair in whole carts (according to our guide).
Or such earrings and keychains, the original purpose of which was .. to replace the watch on the chain, if a person did not have enough money for the last funds. (and so it seemed that something heavy was lying in a watch breast pocket).
This is our guide next to the craft table, which, according to her, was and is in every hut in the village of Krasnoe on the Volga.
Or such is the technique of "casting on a natural object", which allows you to convey all the natural "cracks" of the object. And the Object itself is then removed from the resulting form.
In Soviet times, the jewelry factory produced badges and brooches. And still in a jewelry way.)
But such a brooch - lily of the valley, even I remember. Nostalgia.
In the next hall of the museum, the filigree technique was presented, in fact, for which the local plant is famous. This is a twisted wire technique - copper - silver or silver plated. Products from thimble to huge pennants. In Soviet times, they were in every home. For example, such vases.
Or such hedgehogs.
Well, of course, I was most worried about jewelry.
This kit is also interesting.
And here are sketches of jewelry. When I get big and start making jewelry, I will definitely make these earrings - top right - according to F.P.Birbaum's sketch.
But this kit is not about filigree. It's made of bone. But it is in tune with me.
In the last hall there was an exhibition of works by students of KUKHOM - the only Russian metalworking school. This is their site ... The KUKHOM building is located directly opposite the museum and it looks like interesting exhibitions are also held in the exhibition hall of the school (judging by the site). Among the exhibits, for example, here is such a decorative vase, created as a thesis.
Next time you will definitely need to look at the exhibition at this school. Well, among the student's works in the museum were not only jewelry, but also such amazingly decorated clothes. I am sure that you can buy it after the exhibition. And, for some reason, it seems to me that the price will be adequate. Because the prices in the village of Krasnoe are amazing in their adequacy.
Even in the museum, which occupies a pre-revolutionary building, in which, by the way, the classrooms of this jewelry school were located, so in the museum there is such a unique cast-iron staircase. Which itself looks like a piece of jewelry.
After thanking the guide for the story and asking her about where to go in the village for decorations, we went for them. In fact, there are no secret addresses. Almost all shops from major manufacturers are located on the central street (Sovetskaya), where the museum itself is located. So you don't need to go far - everything is close by. This is, for example, a huge store from the Krasnoselsky Jewelry Factory. It is located to the right of the museum, if you stand facing the entrance to the museum.
In the village of TRI jewelry factory and more than 600 jewelry workshops. Here is a list of major businesses with addresses and phone numbers. I think that some of them do not work with retail, but only with wholesale. Therefore, it makes sense to find out in advance. I would visit the following stores:
1) Almaz Holding store in the plant building, next to the museum (Sovetskaya 49)
2) Shop "Krasnograd" (street Sovetskaya d52). Opposite the building of the plant and the museum. This is a prefabricated store - where there are representatives of many local companies. Yes, prices are more expensive than in company stores at factories, but not significantly.
3) a shop at the Sokolov factory (formerly "Diamant"). Their buildings will be on the right at the entrance to the village ( pr-t Jewelers, 37). their website.
4) shop etc. Krasnoselsky jeweler (will be on the left at the entrance to the village) st. Sovetskaya d.86 is their website.
Also, I would love to find a way out to local jewelers who make designer jewelry. I saw some of the works at the exhibition in the museum. Very worthy. But where to find these masters?
The list of stores does not pretend to be complete at all. Moreover, on the contrary, it reflects only a small part. Therefore, I will be glad if in the comments share your experience of visiting the village of Krasnoe on the Volga or going out to jewelers. There is no doubt that we will return to this village again. My discerning husband Vitaly, having watched how I was "intoxicated" wandering through these shops, as he said in Ali Baba's cave, "Now I know exactly what to give you for your next birthday: a trip to the village of Krasnoe with a certain amount of money.")
Well, about money. It's all true. The prices are amazing. In the first store, I even asked the seller how to read the price tag, because my head could not fit, for example, silver earrings with a rather large insert made of fionites, garnet, artificial topaz or emerald can cost ... 400 - 600 rubles , and some silver ring without inserts - 150 ... Now imagine how drunk I was, realizing that with only 1-2 thousand rubles in my pocket I can buy myself almost any piece of jewelry.
Yes, the assortment is rather monotonous - it resembles the very "carts with crosses and icons" that were transported to the fair. But among all this diversity, you can find something interesting.
And yes, there is, of course, a department with diamonds and gold - platinum, but since I do not know Moscow prices for them, I have nothing to compare with. But I suspect that they are two or three times lower than the Moscow prices, as well as the prices for silver.
As a result, I went with such silver earrings with topaz from Sokolov for 1800 rubles (which was much more expensive than similar earrings from other companies, but I liked these.) And a ring for them in a set, also with topaz, but from another manufacturer for 400 rubles ...
In a word, having enjoyed the most beautiful available, we finally left this glorious village, going to the no less beautiful - Bolshaya Voda of the Volga River. And then we finally understood the true meaning of the name of the village KRASNOE on the Volga. See for yourself: Times:
See for yourself: two. (This is me trying to practically "drink the Don Volga with a shell")
See for yourself: three.
Well, we went to the amazing place - to the ferry crossing, which operates in summer. In the summer, you can come to the village of Krasnoye without visiting Kostroma and saving 30 kilometers.
Well, meanwhile the sun began to decline and we turned our wheels on the way back. We drove through the village of Krasnoe again, past the 17th century Epiphany Church. We did not get inside (it was closed).
And soon we were already back in Kostroma (only 35 km) at the gates of the Ipatievsky monastery, which was our next point for this day. However, as I mentioned, the official tourist sites did not accept us on this trip. Because we arrived at 15:30, and the monastery was open until 16:00, It seemed unreasonable to pay about 1000 rubles for entrance tickets for 30 minutes, so we exhaled happily (because we were already filled with impressions and reflections for this day), went to a local shop, buying "linen towels" for souvenirs (Kostroma is famous for its linen factories).
and went to dinner at the already familiar "Gastronomic cafe" in the Trading Rows (We did not find food in the village of Krasnoye, only gold and silver, and therefore we were hungry). On the way to the cafe, we wondered where the Kremlin is in this city. At some point, they realized that there was no Kremlin, but that there were shopping arcades of immense volume. Well, the truth - the city of merchants - what kind of Kremlin is it?
We were delighted with this discovery, had a delicious dinner and went to Yaroslavl, to the Modern hotel. Finally rest ahead of the next day and the way home.
And to be continued.
You can read the beginning of the story about this journey here.